I have a 99' ram 1500 w/ 5.2l, 5spd... I hear a sqeaking that comes from the rear end when the truck is in gear and coasting. If I step on the gas, press in the clutch, or take it out of gear the sqeaking stops. I also noticed that the chuck and the gas tank is all wet from the grease being thrown out of the rear end. The noise is loudest or at least most noticable when in first and second.. I think that is simply because there is just too much noise from wind and stuff if you are going any faster than that. I took the truck to firestone to get it fixed and the replaced the chuck gasket and filled it with new grease. The noise is still there.. Can someone give me a clue as to what could be causing the noise so whenI go back tomorrow I can recommend something.

 

My limited slip made a noise when I went around turns before I changed the fluid. Not sure if you have LS or not. If so, make sure you use the special fluid additive. I doubt this is the problem, so wait for people who are more knowledgeable to give you ideas.

 

Thanks for the tip but I don't think it has anything to do with whether I go around corners or not, it really happens all the time while coasting in gear. Anyone else have anything??

 

So after driving to go address the problem today the noise subsided, mostly. In first and second I can hear the noise under the same circumstances but only sometimes.. Does anyone have a clue because I sure don't.

 

check your drive shaft u-joints. truck nice and level with wheel chocked, in neutral, brake off. this relieves all the pressure on everything. visually look at u-joints for seal to be intact and no looseness. grab shafts on both side of u-joint and twist. any play is bad and needs replacement.

 

So the problem is back and in full swing.. how hard would this repair be if it were the u-joints. Me being a beginner, could I do it?? I recently went to firestone to have them repair my wifes corrolla... they charged $99 to tell me that her spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap needed to be replaced... something I replaced just on month ago. Then they wanted to charge me $220 to replace the spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor.. UHM NO! I spent $40 and 30min and did it on my own... so the point being I would like to avoid mechanics at all costs..

 

here's an article about the front drive shaft. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/doublecardan.php
the rear is similar, but easier as there are only 2 joints, one at front and one at rear.
its not too bad, just take your time.
the u-joints themselves are only about $10-12 each, so even if you mess one up, just get another.
1. use a big black magic marker and mark a line across the front yoke, the front end of the shaft, the rear end of the shaft, the rear yoke, and the rear end flange. this is so when you put it all back together you align your marks and maintain proper balance. also mark front and rear on the shaft.
2. unbolt the rear flange (dont drop the shaft) and slide it rearward to get it out the trans.
3. move to the workbench. you will need a BIG vise, or a u-joint press, and/or a big hammer and various sockets to disassemble and reassemble. if you don't want to, or can't, or get stuck, you can take it to a machine shop or other shop and get someone to do the joints for not too much money.
4. remove end clips and press/beat out old joints. remove cap from new joint put a generous amount of wheel bearing grease in the cap and put it back on and spin it around some. this extra grease helps to hold the needle bearings from slipping.
5. reassemble. if the fits are too tight to work with, you can use a dremel tool and sanding cylinder to clean off a little rust. do not get carried away - this must remain as a snug, press fit. maintain alignment of your earlier marks. as you get each section done, install the clip. if the cap won't go on far enough, no matter how hard you press, then you've dropped a needle bearing, and you have to remove it and start over. so the clips should fit, and the joint should pivot nice and smooth. if not, stop and start over.
6. reinstall shaft. align the last rear mark with the rear end flange.