TPS Calibration (& O2 Sensor)
Hey guys,
Another boring question to pick your experience. I don't think I need a TPS yet as my truck doesn't tag the red line when I accelerate. However, with 150,000 miles, I always find myself guessing what's next.
My question is if I do pick up a TPS (for a reasonable $50) in the future, is there a calibration that needs to be performed? If so, how is this done? I was looking back at old posts and someone mentioned rotating to specific voltages. If this is true, how do you enter the calibration mode on the computer? I'm hoping someone can explain for me.
My other question is about cleaning an O2 sensor as opposed to replacing. I'm wondering where the point comes when it's time to replace or if I can get away with just cleaning. Also, is there a special cleaning method?
Thanks for ALL the help! It's nice asking silly little questions like this that I honestly don't know and not having cocky people jump down my throat. Take it easy and enjoy the weather (at least for everyone in Michigan)!
Another boring question to pick your experience. I don't think I need a TPS yet as my truck doesn't tag the red line when I accelerate. However, with 150,000 miles, I always find myself guessing what's next.
My question is if I do pick up a TPS (for a reasonable $50) in the future, is there a calibration that needs to be performed? If so, how is this done? I was looking back at old posts and someone mentioned rotating to specific voltages. If this is true, how do you enter the calibration mode on the computer? I'm hoping someone can explain for me.
My other question is about cleaning an O2 sensor as opposed to replacing. I'm wondering where the point comes when it's time to replace or if I can get away with just cleaning. Also, is there a special cleaning method?
Thanks for ALL the help! It's nice asking silly little questions like this that I honestly don't know and not having cocky people jump down my throat. Take it easy and enjoy the weather (at least for everyone in Michigan)!
A TPS can't be "calibrated" per se'. Its basicly a potentiometer (volume control) which relates a given voltage based on the resistance(throttle position).
However, there is a cute little trick which allows you to optimize the initial voltage at idle for a bit better "off the line" response. You should check your TPS before performing this mod, and you'll need some tools and a digital VOM to do it.
Here's the link... http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#TPS_Mod
By the way, there are other symptoms besides "tagging the redline" that are TPS related. Off idle and part throttle stumbing anderratic shifting when cornering are just a couple.
As far as cleaning an O2 sensor, I'd use brake clean, which leaves no residue. I've never understood why people clean them though. The factory recommends a replacement interval, and cleaning something that exposed to that much heat is like cleaning spark plugs, eventualy there's no more you can do. At 150K, I'd pony up the bucks and change 'em.
However, there is a cute little trick which allows you to optimize the initial voltage at idle for a bit better "off the line" response. You should check your TPS before performing this mod, and you'll need some tools and a digital VOM to do it.
Here's the link... http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#TPS_Mod
By the way, there are other symptoms besides "tagging the redline" that are TPS related. Off idle and part throttle stumbing anderratic shifting when cornering are just a couple.
As far as cleaning an O2 sensor, I'd use brake clean, which leaves no residue. I've never understood why people clean them though. The factory recommends a replacement interval, and cleaning something that exposed to that much heat is like cleaning spark plugs, eventualy there's no more you can do. At 150K, I'd pony up the bucks and change 'em.
That actually is a calibration. The PCM is expecting a certain voltage reading for any given position of the throttle. The alignment of the TPS to the throttle provides a precise input to the PCM at all positions ... not just idle.
According to the folks who wrote the article it only optimises the TPS voltage at idle. I didn't use the term calibrate because the article doesn't (although you are technicalycalibrating a true"zero point").The physicaladjustment should beminute as far as rotating the sensor.Running a voltage check through full throttle doesn't show a seriousvoltage change. If it did, it may affect your upper RPM performance.
Despite the claims in the article, most "new"TPSs I've checked are within spec and doing all the labor to remove the bushings is a waste. If I bought a new one from a parts store and it was wayout of the recommended voltage at idle, I'd exchange it for a different one.
I have tried this mod on a couple different rams and can state that it didn't turn either one into a tire smoking beast. Both owners were trying to overcome the extra unsprung weight of larger tires and the lack of proper gearing.
Despite the claims in the article, most "new"TPSs I've checked are within spec and doing all the labor to remove the bushings is a waste. If I bought a new one from a parts store and it was wayout of the recommended voltage at idle, I'd exchange it for a different one.
I have tried this mod on a couple different rams and can state that it didn't turn either one into a tire smoking beast. Both owners were trying to overcome the extra unsprung weight of larger tires and the lack of proper gearing.




