Does the exhaust bolt holes pierce the water jacket on '99 5.9 gas engine? I don't think all of them do. Maybe just the middle two that have studs. If so, what do you guys think of this?I am about to put headers on and thought aboutdoing the mathto get the correct lentgh5/16 set screws to run up in there with RTV, so futureheader removal will not involve antifreeze. Also, one other question. I bought the ARP bolts shown here: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...;x=15&y=11 When I looked for bolts these are the only length that I found except for the 7/8" long "locking" bolts. Here is my concern, I have 3/8" flanges, by the time the bolt goes through the washer and flange, I will only have about 5 threads(5/16") left to go into the head. Stock has about 1/2". Should I be worried about this. Obviously people use these bolts all the time, but 3/8" flange is not standard for most header makers. Iwouldn't mind spending twice the money ($40) for the longer bolts, butthat would only give me about another 2 threads.Alot of money for 2 threads.Any ideas? Or comments?

 

i didn't think any of them went into the water jacket, as with the high heat
of that area, it would be a troublesome leak. i think the ones you have will
be ok.

 

Ok, I believe the 400's go in the water jacket. I realize this is not the same block. I had a79 Cordova engine that leaked at the bolt. Plus, I figured the2 studs on each side that I have were the "wet" ones. Thanks for the reply,you guys that put the headers on, can you tell mefor sure?

 

I got them off, no antifreeze leaking! These are pretty nice headers. Well, lunch is over, back to finish the install!

 

you run into any problems with the bolts snapping? Iv been prepping mine since i got the truck, every morning and night i spray each one with pb blaster, so when the headers get here i hope there will be no problems.

 

Well, the headers are on. That took allday! I didn't have any bolts break, and 3 of the 4 collector bolts spun right off. I was amazed. Oh, what took so long then?.........First the plug boot protectors had to come out, then the bolts were way too short. I only had 2 threads without the washer. This is through 3/8" flange and a thin gasket. So, I went to the hardware store to get longer ones. They only had the allen sockets, so, I got those. Put the passenger side on and the collector was not in the stock location, so my buddy and I tweaked the exhaust system up an inch to fit. Now the hard side( power booster, starter, and trans lines) Got the header on, this collector was perfect, just like stock, BUT since I tweaked the system to fit the other side. I had to tweak it again, this time without the help of my buddy. I used a floor jack and prybar, to move it back the inch it needed. Started to tighten things up and that was a nightmare al by itself. Some of the tubes were in the way so, I had to cut an allen wrench, on the short side, to tighten the those bolts. 1 bolt on each side would not except my new style bolt, so I pulled those 2out and went with the original 3/4" cap screws. Since these are the "ram" horn headers, I had to reroute all the ignition wires as they make the turn around the back of the block, to prevent burning them. So, finally at 1 in the morning, I test drove it and pulled it back in retightened the bolts, then drove it again and let it run for awhile. I think I can say it is done. Only time will tell if the plug boots will get burnt, because the are right up against the header flanges. The flanges should be notched for plug boot relieve, but I already ceramic coated these. If itbecomes a problem, I'll figure something out! I sure hope I notice a power difference after all of this! I just put on the Mopar Performance round air cleaner Friday. Hopefully more air in/out, equals noticiblepower increase. I plan on doing the 1.7 stock viper rockers soon, along with an Auburn cone-style posi with 4.10 gears! I would like to think I would be done then, but fat chance. I can't leave anything alone!