finished plenum repair
This was the first time iv dug that far into a motor, and it was pritty intense at first, the broken bolts were the worst part, but when i realised the manifold just lifts off, i just used vice grips to pull the broken bolts out. took about 12 hours of actual work, but i was taking my time and rethinking every turn on the destruction. putting it back together took 2 hours. i also painted my thermostat housing to match the truck, but i forgot that its covered by the accessories, so you cant see it unfortunately. hopefully when i start it up tomorrow i dont have any more oil burning smell
. dodges...they rock. (btw there was another broken intake bolt that iv been driving with since i got the truck apparently. i got all new bolts, thatmake me satisfied with the project.)
. dodges...they rock. (btw there was another broken intake bolt that iv been driving with since i got the truck apparently. i got all new bolts, thatmake me satisfied with the project.)
ORIGINAL: IndyRamMan
This was the first time iv dug that far into a motor, and it was pritty intense at first, the broken bolts were the worst part, but when i realised the manifold just lifts off, i just used vice grips to pull the broken bolts out. took about 12 hours of actual work, but i was taking my time and rethinking every turn on the destruction. putting it back together took 2 hours. i also painted my thermostat housing to match the truck, but i forgot that its covered by the accessories, so you cant see it unfortunately. hopefully when i start it up tomorrow i dont have any more oil burning smell
. dodges...they rock. (btw there was another broken intake bolt that iv been driving with since i got the truck apparently. i got all new bolts, thatmake me satisfied with the project.)
This was the first time iv dug that far into a motor, and it was pritty intense at first, the broken bolts were the worst part, but when i realised the manifold just lifts off, i just used vice grips to pull the broken bolts out. took about 12 hours of actual work, but i was taking my time and rethinking every turn on the destruction. putting it back together took 2 hours. i also painted my thermostat housing to match the truck, but i forgot that its covered by the accessories, so you cant see it unfortunately. hopefully when i start it up tomorrow i dont have any more oil burning smell
. dodges...they rock. (btw there was another broken intake bolt that iv been driving with since i got the truck apparently. i got all new bolts, thatmake me satisfied with the project.)
ORIGINAL: lv360ram
Like you, I've never gone that far into my engine. Was it difficult to be confident there would be no leaks at the back of the manifold?
Like you, I've never gone that far into my engine. Was it difficult to be confident there would be no leaks at the back of the manifold?
ORIGINAL: mopowar
Next time you go digging, you'll be down that far in an hour and a half
ORIGINAL: IndyRamMan
This was the first time iv dug that far into a motor, and it was pritty intense at first, the broken bolts were the worst part, but when i realised the manifold just lifts off, i just used vice grips to pull the broken bolts out. took about 12 hours of actual work, but i was taking my time and rethinking every turn on the destruction. putting it back together took 2 hours. i also painted my thermostat housing to match the truck, but i forgot that its covered by the accessories, so you cant see it unfortunately. hopefully when i start it up tomorrow i dont have any more oil burning smell
. dodges...they rock. (btw there was another broken intake bolt that iv been driving with since i got the truck apparently. i got all new bolts, thatmake me satisfied with the project.)
This was the first time iv dug that far into a motor, and it was pritty intense at first, the broken bolts were the worst part, but when i realised the manifold just lifts off, i just used vice grips to pull the broken bolts out. took about 12 hours of actual work, but i was taking my time and rethinking every turn on the destruction. putting it back together took 2 hours. i also painted my thermostat housing to match the truck, but i forgot that its covered by the accessories, so you cant see it unfortunately. hopefully when i start it up tomorrow i dont have any more oil burning smell
. dodges...they rock. (btw there was another broken intake bolt that iv been driving with since i got the truck apparently. i got all new bolts, thatmake me satisfied with the project.)
the whole job took me 6 days.......1 day of actual work twice(the aluminum plate broke the first time) I work 24 hr days so there is2 days there and 1 day of my wife and kid to interfeer with my work oh and 1 day to figure out I pinched a wire grounding the fuel pump out. all in all an easy job if I had 2 days off in a rowe.
congratulations. do you notice it running any better ?
lv360, its not too hard, just time consuming if you are paranoid like me to stop and mark everything and double and triple check and rethink each step trying not to make a mistake. also a lot of figuring on how some things come apart (fuel injection connectors, fan, etc)
i got carried away and also did water pump, timing chain, rear main seal, etc, etc, etc, and it took me about 5 evenings after work. after doing it once you could do it again in just a fraction of the time. best tip i can offer a first timer is to mark every wire and hose and cable as you take it loose. then lay everything out where you can see it, in the order you took them off. also get the fan off first and get over inside the engine bay, and pull you tool box or picnic table up beside the truck so you don't have to climb in/out so much. i was a real slow learner on this and climbed in/out a 100 times. a short 2-3 step stepladder helps.
lv360, its not too hard, just time consuming if you are paranoid like me to stop and mark everything and double and triple check and rethink each step trying not to make a mistake. also a lot of figuring on how some things come apart (fuel injection connectors, fan, etc)
i got carried away and also did water pump, timing chain, rear main seal, etc, etc, etc, and it took me about 5 evenings after work. after doing it once you could do it again in just a fraction of the time. best tip i can offer a first timer is to mark every wire and hose and cable as you take it loose. then lay everything out where you can see it, in the order you took them off. also get the fan off first and get over inside the engine bay, and pull you tool box or picnic table up beside the truck so you don't have to climb in/out so much. i was a real slow learner on this and climbed in/out a 100 times. a short 2-3 step stepladder helps.
dhvaughan, thanks for the details.
Is there an intake manifold gasket kit?
How do I know if the rear of the intake has a good seal with no leak?
Is there an intake manifold gasket kit?
How do I know if the rear of the intake has a good seal with no leak?
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Purchase a set from fel-pro and you won't be disappointed. The intake manifold gasket set is four pieces. two cork for the front and back, and two normal looking gaskets for the sides. As the directions in the book state, do not use gsket sealer on the gaskets, only at the 4 corners where two gaskets meet. Also, I made sure that The pins that hold the front and rear gaskets in place were correct. Somehow, mine did not have any when I removed my intake dueto a leaking gasket (Now I wonder why it was leaking). I made new pins from plastic I had in my shop.
Follow the torque procedure exactly when installing your intake manifold and always use new intake bolts. If you don't use new bolts, the stretched original bolts will not torque down correctly. If you don't follow the pattern, the best you can hope is that it won't leak, at worst you break the intake manifold where the bolt mounts it. I actually went around the torque pattern about 10 extra times after I reached the correct torque level and kept re-checking bolts. It wasn't until the last two times that I did not have any additional movement in the bolts at the required torque level.
Follow the torque procedure exactly when installing your intake manifold and always use new intake bolts. If you don't use new bolts, the stretched original bolts will not torque down correctly. If you don't follow the pattern, the best you can hope is that it won't leak, at worst you break the intake manifold where the bolt mounts it. I actually went around the torque pattern about 10 extra times after I reached the correct torque level and kept re-checking bolts. It wasn't until the last two times that I did not have any additional movement in the bolts at the required torque level.
you know I had to use some sealer on the intake gaskets to hold it in place. I also used some on the front and rear gaskets as well as the 4 cornersjust to be safe. I am not having any leaks hopefuly it will stay that way the haynes manual said to use it so I did....I hate those books.
ORIGINAL: turkeyhunter1962
Purchase a set from fel-pro and you won't be disappointed. The intake manifold gasket set is four pieces. two cork for the front and back, and two normal looking gaskets for the sides. As the directions in the book state, do not use gsket sealer on the gaskets, only at the 4 corners where two gaskets meet. Also, I made sure that The pins that hold the front and rear gaskets in place were correct. Somehow, mine did not have any when I removed my intake dueto a leaking gasket (Now I wonder why it was leaking). I made new pins from plastic I had in my shop.
Follow the torque procedure exactly when installing your intake manifold and always use new intake bolts. If you don't use new bolts, the stretched original bolts will not torque down correctly. If you don't follow the pattern, the best you can hope is that it won't leak, at worst you break the intake manifold where the bolt mounts it. I actually went around the torque pattern about 10 extra times after I reached the correct torque level and kept re-checking bolts. It wasn't until the last two times that I did not have any additional movement in the bolts at the required torque level.
Purchase a set from fel-pro and you won't be disappointed. The intake manifold gasket set is four pieces. two cork for the front and back, and two normal looking gaskets for the sides. As the directions in the book state, do not use gsket sealer on the gaskets, only at the 4 corners where two gaskets meet. Also, I made sure that The pins that hold the front and rear gaskets in place were correct. Somehow, mine did not have any when I removed my intake dueto a leaking gasket (Now I wonder why it was leaking). I made new pins from plastic I had in my shop.
Follow the torque procedure exactly when installing your intake manifold and always use new intake bolts. If you don't use new bolts, the stretched original bolts will not torque down correctly. If you don't follow the pattern, the best you can hope is that it won't leak, at worst you break the intake manifold where the bolt mounts it. I actually went around the torque pattern about 10 extra times after I reached the correct torque level and kept re-checking bolts. It wasn't until the last two times that I did not have any additional movement in the bolts at the required torque level.
Where the hell do I get these pins???







