Valve lash adjustment help
If you're running a hydraulic valvetrain it's not really lash, it's preload. You adjust it on the back of the lobe when the valve is fully closed. There are charts out there that tell you what the correct adjustment order is, but the way I have been doing it is:
Turn the motor to #1 tdc and adjust both valves on #1
Then hand turn the crank 90* or until you reach the next slot in the harmonic balancer-
adjust both valves on #8
and so on. The slots indicate tdc firingfor each cylinder. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
Turn the motor to #1 tdc and adjust both valves on #1
Then hand turn the crank 90* or until you reach the next slot in the harmonic balancer-
adjust both valves on #8
and so on. The slots indicate tdc firingfor each cylinder. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
Ok, when I get zero lash, do I turn it one full turn(six wrench flats)? It measures .030", thats what the book and cam specks require. Am I doing it right?
If you are using the mopar lifters you can go from 1/2 turn to 1 1/2 turns. 3/4 and slightly upwards will give you a quiet valvetrain. If you plan on running upwards of 6.5k rpms, then it may be wise to err from 3/4 turn to the 1/2 side due to lifter pump. You may want to double check the 30. Depending on which studs you are using, one full turn ought to give you 60 or so. Did you prime the lifters first? I found that determining 0 lash with fresh unprimed lifters can be tricky at best. I use a long 5/16 shaft allen wrench that I cut off and adapted to a flexible 1/4 drive fitting that I insert into the oil pump drive to prime the motor and lifters via a cordless 18v Dewalt drill motor before I do this.




