Running HOT!!!!!
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Joined: Feb 2007
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RE: Running HOT!!!!!
stick with the recomended stock rating for your area (t-stat).
if you increase the temp rating, then it will not open till engine is hotter.
I would like to know what you mean by "hot".
did the temp guage move at all?
was the a/c on?
did the cab heat up for no aparent reason?
if you increase the temp rating, then it will not open till engine is hotter.
I would like to know what you mean by "hot".
did the temp guage move at all?
was the a/c on?
did the cab heat up for no aparent reason?
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
RE: Running HOT!!!!!
ORIGINAL: Gone Campin
in this suggested order, check the following:
with the engine cool:
1. coolant level (in the rad, not the overflow) many people believe that the reservoir is always the absolute telltale of system coolant level. it is not.
2. reach in the fan shroud and spin the fan, or try to. if it spins freely, your fan clutch is worn out. however, this is only a problem at low speed or idle. theres enough air when you move down the road at a considerable pace.
Now, with engine running, before it gets hot:
3. look for evidence of coolant leaks, especially around the water pump.
4. as engine warms up, turn on the heater and see if you get heat from it. if not, you ain't got (enough) coolant.
With engine at operating temp or above:
5. squeeze the top rad hose, if you can without burning your hand. if there is no temperature corresponding to the engine tempor no coolant surge, your stat is stuck.
If you find you're low on coolant and don't see a leak, fill 'er up and run a week or two. If she behaves with coolant in it, but the level mysteriously disappears, then you have a coolant leak at the head gasket
If on the other hand your coolant level remains topped up but engine is still hot, replace stat. If that is not solution, then replace the water pump.
If you have high miles and pretty sure none of this system has been worked on, replace stat, pump, and both rad hoses. consider heater hoses replacement as well.
in this suggested order, check the following:
with the engine cool:
1. coolant level (in the rad, not the overflow) many people believe that the reservoir is always the absolute telltale of system coolant level. it is not.
2. reach in the fan shroud and spin the fan, or try to. if it spins freely, your fan clutch is worn out. however, this is only a problem at low speed or idle. theres enough air when you move down the road at a considerable pace.
Now, with engine running, before it gets hot:
3. look for evidence of coolant leaks, especially around the water pump.
4. as engine warms up, turn on the heater and see if you get heat from it. if not, you ain't got (enough) coolant.
With engine at operating temp or above:
5. squeeze the top rad hose, if you can without burning your hand. if there is no temperature corresponding to the engine tempor no coolant surge, your stat is stuck.
If you find you're low on coolant and don't see a leak, fill 'er up and run a week or two. If she behaves with coolant in it, but the level mysteriously disappears, then you have a coolant leak at the head gasket
If on the other hand your coolant level remains topped up but engine is still hot, replace stat. If that is not solution, then replace the water pump.
If you have high miles and pretty sure none of this system has been worked on, replace stat, pump, and both rad hoses. consider heater hoses replacement as well.
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 54
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RE: Running HOT!!!!!
ORIGINAL: VWandDodge
I have been through all of this, yet my truck keeps blowing hot. Last time it blew right out of the radiator cap. I am almost suspect that the cap is bad, even though it is a new cap. Once it blows a gallon of coolant, it seems fine. Very perplexing.
ORIGINAL: Gone Campin
in this suggested order, check the following:
with the engine cool:
1. coolant level (in the rad, not the overflow) many people believe that the reservoir is always the absolute telltale of system coolant level. it is not.
2. reach in the fan shroud and spin the fan, or try to. if it spins freely, your fan clutch is worn out. however, this is only a problem at low speed or idle. theres enough air when you move down the road at a considerable pace.
Now, with engine running, before it gets hot:
3. look for evidence of coolant leaks, especially around the water pump.
4. as engine warms up, turn on the heater and see if you get heat from it. if not, you ain't got (enough) coolant.
With engine at operating temp or above:
5. squeeze the top rad hose, if you can without burning your hand. if there is no temperature corresponding to the engine tempor no coolant surge, your stat is stuck.
If you find you're low on coolant and don't see a leak, fill 'er up and run a week or two. If she behaves with coolant in it, but the level mysteriously disappears, then you have a coolant leak at the head gasket
If on the other hand your coolant level remains topped up but engine is still hot, replace stat. If that is not solution, then replace the water pump.
If you have high miles and pretty sure none of this system has been worked on, replace stat, pump, and both rad hoses. consider heater hoses replacement as well.
in this suggested order, check the following:
with the engine cool:
1. coolant level (in the rad, not the overflow) many people believe that the reservoir is always the absolute telltale of system coolant level. it is not.
2. reach in the fan shroud and spin the fan, or try to. if it spins freely, your fan clutch is worn out. however, this is only a problem at low speed or idle. theres enough air when you move down the road at a considerable pace.
Now, with engine running, before it gets hot:
3. look for evidence of coolant leaks, especially around the water pump.
4. as engine warms up, turn on the heater and see if you get heat from it. if not, you ain't got (enough) coolant.
With engine at operating temp or above:
5. squeeze the top rad hose, if you can without burning your hand. if there is no temperature corresponding to the engine tempor no coolant surge, your stat is stuck.
If you find you're low on coolant and don't see a leak, fill 'er up and run a week or two. If she behaves with coolant in it, but the level mysteriously disappears, then you have a coolant leak at the head gasket
If on the other hand your coolant level remains topped up but engine is still hot, replace stat. If that is not solution, then replace the water pump.
If you have high miles and pretty sure none of this system has been worked on, replace stat, pump, and both rad hoses. consider heater hoses replacement as well.
when you say you've been through most of this, did you actually replace anything? or just checked it?
coolant systems are about the simplest most unchanging system on vehicles.
Also water pumps sometimes fail without any of the usual symptoms. I've had pumps fail without the leaking through the weep hole.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
RE: Running HOT!!!!!
Brand new t-stat (tested it and the old one and they work perfect); brand new 3-core brass radiator; new (reconditioned) water pump that pumps strong; clear fins on the rad, etc. I haev some threads in here discussing the issue. No matter how much I bleed the air out of my system, it always sounds like water is running behind my dash when I start the truck. I am at my wits end with this thing.
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Professional
Joined: May 2007
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RE: Running HOT!!!!!
well the coolant is full in the radiator and the reservoir is where it should be.
i'll check the truck tomorrow for the hose thing, i live 1.2 miles from work
so maybe by the time i get there it should be warmed up.
also this morning i moved the truck from the driveway to the street and looked for leaks in the coolant system
and i saw no leaks . i will have to try the heater tomorrow too.
and bajafunby hot i mean i can open the hood and feel the heat from like 7 feet away and
it takes about 8-12 hours to cool down where i am able to touch it so i can work on it.
also the front fenders and hood get hot and hotter than i have ever had a vehicles get
and i have had alot of trucks
2001 dodge ram sport with hedman headers w/ 5.9 auto only problem i have had with this one headers kept coming loose
1973 ford pickup 351 w , auto (stock) just a farm truck never took it on the road much (always ran crappy)
1983 dodge 150 (stock) also another farm truck (ran well) fuel pump and transmission problems so got rid of it
1996 chevy 1500 350 flowmaster muffler the rest (stock) got rid of it when i joined the army because i did not need it
none of these have every heated up like the 2001 dodge ram i have now .
maybe i am noticing it now because i have been changing rotor, cap, IAC, cleaning TB, gapping Spark plugs
and i have not done that to any of my other truck i have always had someone else do it but, when you get older you gotta
save money where you can and you start to do the stuff you know how too do.
i'll check the truck tomorrow for the hose thing, i live 1.2 miles from work
so maybe by the time i get there it should be warmed up.
also this morning i moved the truck from the driveway to the street and looked for leaks in the coolant system
and i saw no leaks . i will have to try the heater tomorrow too.
and bajafunby hot i mean i can open the hood and feel the heat from like 7 feet away and
it takes about 8-12 hours to cool down where i am able to touch it so i can work on it.
also the front fenders and hood get hot and hotter than i have ever had a vehicles get
and i have had alot of trucks
2001 dodge ram sport with hedman headers w/ 5.9 auto only problem i have had with this one headers kept coming loose
1973 ford pickup 351 w , auto (stock) just a farm truck never took it on the road much (always ran crappy)
1983 dodge 150 (stock) also another farm truck (ran well) fuel pump and transmission problems so got rid of it
1996 chevy 1500 350 flowmaster muffler the rest (stock) got rid of it when i joined the army because i did not need it
none of these have every heated up like the 2001 dodge ram i have now .
maybe i am noticing it now because i have been changing rotor, cap, IAC, cleaning TB, gapping Spark plugs
and i have not done that to any of my other truck i have always had someone else do it but, when you get older you gotta
save money where you can and you start to do the stuff you know how too do.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 37
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RE: Running HOT!!!!!
ORIGINAL: VWandDodge
Brand new t-stat (tested it and the old one and they work perfect); brand new 3-core brass radiator; new (reconditioned) water pump that pumps strong; clear fins on the rad, etc. I haev some threads in here discussing the issue. No matter how much I bleed the air out of my system, it always sounds like water is running behind my dash when I start the truck. I am at my wits end with this thing.
Brand new t-stat (tested it and the old one and they work perfect); brand new 3-core brass radiator; new (reconditioned) water pump that pumps strong; clear fins on the rad, etc. I haev some threads in here discussing the issue. No matter how much I bleed the air out of my system, it always sounds like water is running behind my dash when I start the truck. I am at my wits end with this thing.
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Professional
Joined: May 2007
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RE: Running HOT!!!!!
i can feel the coolant flowing through the hose and it blow really hot air in the truck with the heat on
i can spin the fan with my hand but it isn't like a spin that just spins i have to push it and then push it. it doesn't spin freely after 1 push
is it still good or should i bring this to my mechanics attention?
i can spin the fan with my hand but it isn't like a spin that just spins i have to push it and then push it. it doesn't spin freely after 1 push
is it still good or should i bring this to my mechanics attention?
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,567
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From: Richmond, Va
RE: Running HOT!!!!!
1973 ford pickup 351 w , auto (stock) just a farm truck never took it on the road much (always ran crappy)
If your headers aren't sealed right, either at the heads or the y, it will lean you out. It sounds like what you are describing is a lean running motor. I wouldn't drive it until you get it figured out. You can fry your valves amongst other things.Try to get your hands on a scanner. It doesn't have to be high dollar. Just something that will show fuel trim. See what they are reading. If you have positive numbers above 10 forshort term (stft) and long term (ltft) then that is probably your problem. The numbers will be shown as percentages on the scanner.
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Professional
Joined: May 2007
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RE: Running HOT!!!!!
does oreilly auto parts, napa, advance auto,auto zone have them so you can test it for free?
Does my cat being unhooked from the exhaust have anything to do with this ?
Does my cat being unhooked from the exhaust have anything to do with this ?
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,567
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From: Richmond, Va
RE: Running HOT!!!!!
If you mean that you are running an open pipe with no muffler and no cat (no back pressure to speak of), then, yes, it could have something to do with it. Most auto parts stores have some sort of scanner now. I would call ahead and ask what they have and what it does. If it is just a code reader then it won't do the trick. You need a reader/scanner.
Just out of curiosity, where is your front 02 sensor located right now?
Just out of curiosity, where is your front 02 sensor located right now?