Hi Guys,

Just purchased a 1997 1500 DodgeRam extended cab, 5.2 W/200K miles on it, headers, K&N tube andcone filter system, hi-flow exhaust. Did the basic tune up, plugs, wire, cap, rotor, cleaned/re-oiled K&N filter and changed the thermostat to factory rating as the motor was running poorly. However, after performing the basic tune up I really didn’t see much of an improvement as the truck still has the following problems.

1. Stumbles after the initial start up if I don't let it idle/warm up for 5 min or more.
2. Once it is warm and shut off, restarted within 30 min it back fires in the exhaust when I step on the gas – if it was a non-electronic motor, I would have said that the ignition was retarded.
3. The other symptom it displays is when I running down the road at 40-60 MPH and the engine is either cutting out or something is going on with the transmission or converter as the drive clunks.
4. Engine was running very rich and changed the rear O2 sensor, since then the engine temp has raised about 10-20 degrees.

Any assistance is resolving any of these issues is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Don

 

hey, welcome to df.

000.. check for stored codes. if you have a digital odometer (what year ?), do the ignition key on - off - on - off - on. otherwise go to local auto parts store for reading with the scan tool.

1. inability to idle is usually idle air control (IAC), do a search for lots of posts. its on the back of the throttle body, about $55 at local auto parts, usually best to remove tb and clean it good, especially the well where the iac plunger seats. could be other sensors but IAC is the most common.

4. rear o2 sensor doesn't do anything except monitor the efficiency of the cat. the front 02 sensor provides tuning feedback to the pcm. try changing the front one instead. i'm not sure why it would run hotter.

2. mine's never done the backfire, but i've read about people's who have done that after installing a cam, and it needed 'fuel sync' between cam and injector control. this is done with an odb programmer (not a shade tree job). this is a question - with that many miles could/would the timing chain slack create a timing drift ? i don't know i'm asking.

3. a friend of mine's used to shudder bad when pulling a hill after trans was good and warmed up. he sold it before we ever found out exactly what it was, other than a screwed up trans. you will probaby need to see a trans shop. look on here for a member, master tech. he's a trans man. post a better description of the problem and pm him and ask him to look at the post.
https://dodgeforum.com/showprofile.asp?memId=61687

 

like said above, id replace your front o2 sensor ( pre cat) or check that your cat isnt clogged. its a very common problem on these trucks

 

Hi Dhvaughan and Tani1500,

Will, check for the stored codes this morning and see what is going on, as for the 02 sensor I’ll replace the front one too. Part of my problem could be related to a bad cat as itstarted to rattle after we dropped and repaired the tranny. Tranny problems started one day at work, drove in with no problem, then went to lunch and it start slipping in drive, dropped it to 3rd and it started tocrawl and the RPMs were climbing too fast. Dropped the pan and it was loaded with fuzz. Since then it has been overhauled and works great, how ever I still have that disconnected feeling like someone putting it in neutral while we’re going down the road, truck feels just like were just coasting when we're under power and then it justhooks up again and you can feel it, it’s a really weird sensation.

As for the advice about cleaning the AIC, will do that next and see what happens and I’ll check the voltage at the TPS to see if it is right or not.


Thanks again,

Don.

 

on the 97 you have to count the number of flashes that the CEL spits out after doing the key trick. Thats about all i have for my 2 cents, i agree with everything else said.

EDIT* Forgot to mention....like the movie too.

 

Hi Guys,

Just checked the truck for the fault codes and the only thing that came up was #33 for the A/C Clutch Relay telling me that I have an open or a short in the circuit. Other than that nothing out of the ordinary, I will howevery try to pull the IAC out and clean it the way thepost Tricks and Tips suggests and see what happens.

Thanks again,

Don

 

1&2 are both symptoms of running rich. Most of the related sensors will trow a code. Could be the map sensor though. The reason it stumbles after initial start-up is that you are in open loop and the pcm is relying on iat, ect, and map for fuel delivery. Once it goes into closed loop, it mainly relies on the o2 sensor (front). Map sensors aren't as sensitive to throwing codes like the others. If you have a scanner and a vacuum gaugeyou can check it. Reading should be roughly atmospheric pressure-engine vacuum.

It sounds like the previous owner might have been into modding a bit. For the clunk you may want to check your tv cable. If he adjusted that too far out, it would cause harsh (clunking sound) shifts under low load conditions. You may want to look at the injectors as well to see if they are stock, or if they were changed. Also check the plugs for the proper heat range. I had a open loop stumble that I cured by switching from autolite 3923's (one range cooler than stock) to NGK's of the proper heat range.

TV cable adjustment:
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...Adjustment.pdf

See if you can get a part # off one of your injectors and post it back here. Once it warms up does the idle lope? You may have a aftermarketcam in there.