Yes i did them myself... Little hard not to when dad owns a garage...lol..bussiness... its straight forward on the back ujoint when to take the 4 bolts off the yoke (ears) u should see C clips on the ujoint just make sure those are on the new ones ...and in the bag with the new ujoints....other then that get the BFG out and pound out the old ones....
(some wont have play but look real close at the ujoint you mite see a cap out of line or not seated in) mine was fine up to 30 mph after that it started to viberate to the point where it shake.. it was bad..

 

Silver, when you remove the U-joint, use the driveshaft to see if you have any movement in the output shaft of the transfer case. A common problem is a broken C-clip used to hold the output shaft (note the output shaft is behind the slipe yoke)in place. When the C-clip breaks the output shaft should have some free movement when you press on it in either direction. Someone makes a retainer clip that clamps around the shaft using two allen headed screws but I don't remember who...I'm sure I can find it though. If you do pull the drive shaft out completely, have a bucket handy as the transfer case lube is going to pour out of the slip yoke.

 

Roger that, thanks for the tip. Will I need a new seal if I pull it out?

 

Most cases no..pull out nice and easy and put it in nice and easy..lol... another thing .. make a mark how you took the shaft off put it on the same way make a line on the yoke --- and the shaft ---- makes sure those line up , sometimes if not put on the same way will knock it off balance then you gotta rotate the shaft.. cause you will feel that too....

 

Good lord you weren't kidding about how tough it is to get the top control arm to line up (must be because the top Skyjacker arm is 1/8 shorter then the stock arm. What a pain in the a--. And getting around the cat on the passenger side is near impossible. Lower arm is a peice of cake though. Took me about 5 hours total, and a lot of grunting. I posted pics over in my control arm thread:

https://dodgeforum.com/m_855363/tm.htm

Taking it in for an alignment tomorrow morning, but I scribed the cam nut, and put it back to those marks when I was done. It felt pretty good when I took it for a test drive a few minutes ago, so I think my alignment is not to far off. Going to get one anyway and have the tires balanced, to see if it helps the vibration (original topic of this thread).

 

After I got the tires balanced and aligned today after installing the control arms yesterday, the vibration was still there. Replaced the driveshaft front and rear u-joint with some from Napa. They are from their Perfomance Series heavy duty line. They have corrosion resistant coating, alloy steel cross, case hardened bearing caps, and grease zerk fittings. Also are lifetime warrantied, so should be the last set I need to buy. Anyway, that took care of it. Rides smooth as silk again. The rear one was in pretty bad shape once I got under there and really looked at it. Probably doesn't help that I have been hauling tons of rock (5 tons so far, one ton at a time) for a landscaping project I am doing at home. If it was going bad, that probably sped it up for sure.

As always, thanks everyone for your comments and tips.

 

Your welcome glade ever thing work out..