REMOTE START VIPER ALARM
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No, it will help you out, you just won't have all the features andoptions that hypertech and superchips advertises. You'llstill get the horsepower and torque, as well as the abilityto change tire sizes and read engine codes and adjust the rev limit I believe.
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Well, I think I'll get that too after I get my Viper alarm.
. Which is better though, in your opinion, hypertech or superchips?
No, it will help you out, you just won't have all the features andoptions that hypertech and superchips advertises. You'llstill get the horsepower and torque, as well as the abilityto change tire sizes and read engine codes and adjust the rev limit I believe.
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Well, I think I'll get that too after I get my Viper alarm.
. Which is better though, in your opinion, hypertech or superchips?
ORIGINAL: navyfc
I bought a Hypertech Max energy for my truck, i haven had the chance to put it in yet, but the transmission and shift points doesnt really have that much of a effect on hp or torque from what i know... I have herd several good things about both hypertech and superchips, they will help with performance.... Especially when you run high octane fuel, which im going to try out and see if it saves any money in the long run... And the 180 degree t-stat allows your engine to run cooler from what i understand, i just bought it because with most programmers and chips you need one even tho it turned out i didnt really need it for the hypertech, either way its a upgrade and a cheap one at that.
I bought a Hypertech Max energy for my truck, i haven had the chance to put it in yet, but the transmission and shift points doesnt really have that much of a effect on hp or torque from what i know... I have herd several good things about both hypertech and superchips, they will help with performance.... Especially when you run high octane fuel, which im going to try out and see if it saves any money in the long run... And the 180 degree t-stat allows your engine to run cooler from what i understand, i just bought it because with most programmers and chips you need one even tho it turned out i didnt really need it for the hypertech, either way its a upgrade and a cheap one at that.
The t stat's easy to replace, just drain the radiator andpull off the top radiator hose,take the bolts off on top of the intake manifold and you'll see the T stat staring at you.
Couple of tips:
1. On thet stat housing that is connected to the radiator hose there is a tab that says "front". File that tab completely off so it's flush with the housing. Otherwise it catches on everything andis a PITA to seat back on the manifold.
2. drill a 1/8" hole in the t-stat thru one of the metal support bracket plating just offthe center of the t stat. It'll help chase air out of the system when you burp it.
3. Make sure you use a new t-stat gasket and RTV around the gasket to seal the coolant line.
4. It might help to put the bolts back into the t-stat bracket when you lower it back down to the manifold, but be careful you don't knock the bolts loose and lose them! There's lotsd of places you can loose them down there and you don't want to drop one where you can't reach. Have a pair of "magic fingers" handy or a magnet on a string just in case.
Couple of tips:
1. On thet stat housing that is connected to the radiator hose there is a tab that says "front". File that tab completely off so it's flush with the housing. Otherwise it catches on everything andis a PITA to seat back on the manifold.
2. drill a 1/8" hole in the t-stat thru one of the metal support bracket plating just offthe center of the t stat. It'll help chase air out of the system when you burp it.
3. Make sure you use a new t-stat gasket and RTV around the gasket to seal the coolant line.
4. It might help to put the bolts back into the t-stat bracket when you lower it back down to the manifold, but be careful you don't knock the bolts loose and lose them! There's lotsd of places you can loose them down there and you don't want to drop one where you can't reach. Have a pair of "magic fingers" handy or a magnet on a string just in case.
ORIGINAL: 1998 Ram Sport
Well, I think I'll get that too after I get my Viper alarm.
. Which is better though, in your opinion, hypertech or superchips?
Well, I think I'll get that too after I get my Viper alarm.
. Which is better though, in your opinion, hypertech or superchips?
ORIGINAL: aim4squirrels
The t stat's easy to replace, just drain the radiator andpull off the top radiator hose,take the bolts off on top of the intake manifold and you'll see the T stat staring at you.
Couple of tips:
1. On thet stat housing that is connected to the radiator hose there is a tab that says "front". File that tab completely off so it's flush with the housing. Otherwise it catches on everything andis a PITA to seat back on the manifold.
2. drill a 1/8" hole in the t-stat thru one of the metal support bracket plating just offthe center of the t stat. It'll help chase air out of the system when you burp it.
3. Make sure you use a new t-stat gasket and RTV around the gasket to seal the coolant line.
4. It might help to put the bolts back into the t-stat bracket when you lower it back down to the manifold, but be careful you don't knock the bolts loose and lose them! There's lotsd of places you can loose them down there and you don't want to drop one where you can't reach. Have a pair of "magic fingers" handy or a magnet on a string just in case.
The t stat's easy to replace, just drain the radiator andpull off the top radiator hose,take the bolts off on top of the intake manifold and you'll see the T stat staring at you.
Couple of tips:
1. On thet stat housing that is connected to the radiator hose there is a tab that says "front". File that tab completely off so it's flush with the housing. Otherwise it catches on everything andis a PITA to seat back on the manifold.
2. drill a 1/8" hole in the t-stat thru one of the metal support bracket plating just offthe center of the t stat. It'll help chase air out of the system when you burp it.
3. Make sure you use a new t-stat gasket and RTV around the gasket to seal the coolant line.
4. It might help to put the bolts back into the t-stat bracket when you lower it back down to the manifold, but be careful you don't knock the bolts loose and lose them! There's lotsd of places you can loose them down there and you don't want to drop one where you can't reach. Have a pair of "magic fingers" handy or a magnet on a string just in case.
I didn't want an alarm but when I got my truck it was missing the remote for the door locks & after finding out that the dealer wanted around $85 to program a new remote (not including the remote!) I instead bought a Bulldog remote starter which also does the door locks for $50. After an hour of my time I had remote door locks again, a remote starter for when it is snowing + the system has a trunk release which I used with a small addon module to control my offroad lights & lets me see my street from the house at nite since we do not have street lights in the forest.
As long as it is installed correct almost any reputable companies alarm/remote start should last you a long time and WONT hurt your vehicle in any way. Viper(dei) is a good company.
I have been isntalling remote starters for about 3 years now. It all comes down to the installer. Make sure to speak with the installer and ask how he does his installation. Make sure you feel confident in his install techniques. Also keep in mind that almost every dealership will automatically jump to the aftermarket equipment being the cause... esspecially remote starters. For example: I did a starter in a 07 Toyota Tacoma. About 2 days after having it done, the guy was having problems with the transmission shifting. He brought it to the dealership and they told him (after about 5 min of looking at the truck) that "the remote starter is causing the truck not to shift". SO he brings it to us. I dont believe it one bit, but I tell him I'd take a look at it anyways. I call up the dealership and ask them what the problem was... the tech's response was "all of these remote starters are the same. The neutral safety switch is not hooked up correctly and its causing the tranny to not shift" Well I know that our units do not connect into the neutral safety switch, they have their own toggle kill switch. So I tell him "our units do not use a neutral safety wire, but can you tell me what color the wire is, and where I can test it to make sure" His exact response was "Well I never really tested the wire, I just knew that these r/s had this problem." I couldnt believe it. He blatently told me that he never even looked at the truck, he just jumped to the r/s being the culprit. WEll I took the r/s out anyways just to show the customer and viola..... the problem was still there. He brought it back to the dealership, and it ended up being the pump or filter or something (dont remember exactly). Classic example. The problem is that the dealership techs are not trained in aftermarket equipment, and they are almost afraid to work with/ or even work around them, so they automatically blame the aftermarket equipment.
With taht said, an improper installation can cause major electrical problems, but will NEVER (not that I've seen atleast) cause mechanical problems. Make sure the installer solders and tapes with 3M Super 33 tape or equivalent (rolls are around $3-$4 per roll).
Sorry for the long post.
HTH
With taht said, an improper installation can cause major electrical problems, but will NEVER (not that I've seen atleast) cause mechanical problems. Make sure the installer solders and tapes with 3M Super 33 tape or equivalent (rolls are around $3-$4 per roll).
Sorry for the long post.
HTH
ORIGINAL: offroadzj
I have been isntalling remote starters for about 3 years now. It all comes down to the installer. Make sure to speak with the installer and ask how he does his installation. Make sure you feel confident in his install techniques. Also keep in mind that almost every dealership will automatically jump to the aftermarket equipment being the cause... esspecially remote starters. For example: I did a starter in a 07 Toyota Tacoma. About 2 days after having it done, the guy was having problems with the transmission shifting. He brought it to the dealership and they told him (after about 5 min of looking at the truck) that "the remote starter is causing the truck not to shift". SO he brings it to us. I dont believe it one bit, but I tell him I'd take a look at it anyways. I call up the dealership and ask them what the problem was... the tech's response was "all of these remote starters are the same. The neutral safety switch is not hooked up correctly and its causing the tranny to not shift" Well I know that our units do not connect into the neutral safety switch, they have their own toggle kill switch. So I tell him "our units do not use a neutral safety wire, but can you tell me what color the wire is, and where I can test it to make sure" His exact response was "Well I never really tested the wire, I just knew that these r/s had this problem." I couldnt believe it. He blatently told me that he never even looked at the truck, he just jumped to the r/s being the culprit. WEll I took the r/s out anyways just to show the customer and viola..... the problem was still there. He brought it back to the dealership, and it ended up being the pump or filter or something (dont remember exactly). Classic example. The problem is that the dealership techs are not trained in aftermarket equipment, and they are almost afraid to work with/ or even work around them, so they automatically blame the aftermarket equipment.
With taht said, an improper installation can cause major electrical problems, but will NEVER (not that I've seen atleast) cause mechanical problems. Make sure the installer solders and tapes with 3M Super 33 tape or equivalent (rolls are around $3-$4 per roll).
Sorry for the long post.
HTH
I have been isntalling remote starters for about 3 years now. It all comes down to the installer. Make sure to speak with the installer and ask how he does his installation. Make sure you feel confident in his install techniques. Also keep in mind that almost every dealership will automatically jump to the aftermarket equipment being the cause... esspecially remote starters. For example: I did a starter in a 07 Toyota Tacoma. About 2 days after having it done, the guy was having problems with the transmission shifting. He brought it to the dealership and they told him (after about 5 min of looking at the truck) that "the remote starter is causing the truck not to shift". SO he brings it to us. I dont believe it one bit, but I tell him I'd take a look at it anyways. I call up the dealership and ask them what the problem was... the tech's response was "all of these remote starters are the same. The neutral safety switch is not hooked up correctly and its causing the tranny to not shift" Well I know that our units do not connect into the neutral safety switch, they have their own toggle kill switch. So I tell him "our units do not use a neutral safety wire, but can you tell me what color the wire is, and where I can test it to make sure" His exact response was "Well I never really tested the wire, I just knew that these r/s had this problem." I couldnt believe it. He blatently told me that he never even looked at the truck, he just jumped to the r/s being the culprit. WEll I took the r/s out anyways just to show the customer and viola..... the problem was still there. He brought it back to the dealership, and it ended up being the pump or filter or something (dont remember exactly). Classic example. The problem is that the dealership techs are not trained in aftermarket equipment, and they are almost afraid to work with/ or even work around them, so they automatically blame the aftermarket equipment.
With taht said, an improper installation can cause major electrical problems, but will NEVER (not that I've seen atleast) cause mechanical problems. Make sure the installer solders and tapes with 3M Super 33 tape or equivalent (rolls are around $3-$4 per roll).
Sorry for the long post.
HTH



