my 02 ram 2500 5.9 auto 4x4 is finally running good but like most vehicles heat is a huge power killer. when i tow my truck does great but if its hot i lose a ton of power and also if my clutch fan kicks in i lose a ton of power and if i use my ac forget about it im done. im looking for a fix for these issues. i know the obviouse is a fastman and i plan on getting one as well as a tuner but right now i need relatively cheap fixes. i was considering swapping out my stock fan for a lighter higher cfm fan im figuring it will be easier for the motor to turn and will help reduce under hood temps if it pushes more air than stock as well as help with fuel mileage. i know an electric fan is probably the best bet but there expensive.the ac i try not to use but sometimes i just have to. is there something that will counteract the draw of the ac and not make it so severe? and other than a 180 degree t- stat and very expensive cowl induction hoods is there a way to reduce under hood temps so that i dont loose so much power due to the heat? like most i want better performance without losing gas mileage. i know we all lose power due to heat etc but are there any relatively cheap mods to help with this?? thanks for the help

 

Questions!?
What is the tow rating of the truck? Does it have factory tow package (not just the factory hitch)? What is the ACTUAL WEIGHT of the trailer and truck as it is when you tow. I.E. wet weight, supplies, fuel, people, baggage, etc. Acutal weight as in you have to go to a scale fully loaded. I'm assuming this is a travel trailer. If not disregard some of the above, but weigh the rig anyway. If it is a travel trailer, what sort of profile does it have as far as wind resistance. A high profile 5th wheel for example has considerable wind resistance and the extra drag causes everything to work harder, thus, more heat.
What is the terrain like where you tow? Flat? Hilly? Mountians? Obviously that will play a roll in loading and heating your engine.
There is nothing that can be done for the a/c load except turn it off. Air conditioning is one of the biggest loads you can put on an engine.
I'm curious about the fan clutch "kicking in". At highway speed it shouldn't start and/or stop. It would come on in slower traffic situations or on hills and such but it is fluid operated and engine rpm/load is what kicks it on. You may have a failing clutch. But certainly an additional elec. fan won't hurt anything. If installed on the lower right side of the a/c condensor (pusher), it will help your engine cooling and lower a/c temps. Sorry, it won't do anything to reduce the a/c load though.
Finally, even if the truck came with a factory trans. cooler, an add on would definately help. The transmission is a MAJOR heat source, especially when towing.
Towing and high temps. require the consideration of the ENTIRE picture. But weight and wind resistance are paramount issues that need to be addressed.
WC

 

my trailer is a 2006 6 x 12 danzer enclosed single axle. the trailer weighs 1300# and i usually only haul my atv its a 2006 arcticcat 400 4x4overestimating its probably about 800#. ill throw in me and the wife im 250# shes maybe 125# and my 2 dogs totaling at 140# so all and all its about 2,615# i have no idea what the truck weighs. and i think the manual says it can tow 8800#my truck has a factory tow package but when my tranny was rebuilt they added a bigger hd tranny cooler.as far as wind resistance theres nothing extra on my truck to stop wind the trailer sticks up past the truck by about 3 ft. as far as terrain while towing it ranges from flat to mountains so it really varies. i know the hills are big killers for me but that what im hoping to cure. my truck will start really getting loud when it has to work hard it sounds like the clutch fan its the only thing i can think of so im looking into a new higher air flow and lighter fan and a new clutch for the fan. im figuring a new clutch because there cheap and it cant hurt. im thinking a lighter fan to help reduce load on the truck and a higher air flow to keep the engine compartment a little cooler. now i usually dont get this loud revving noise unless i turn my ac on (it sounds like a semi revving out in first gear) but it will sometimes just start for no reason whether its under load or not. i appreciate any help does my theory on swapping fans seem like it would work?? this is the only thing keeping my truck from hauling anything i need without issue. im going to add a fast man down the road as well as a tuner but i want to eliminate this problem without those upgrades so that i get the most out of them that i can. thanks again keep the suggestions coming

 

a cheep mod which will help some is getting some thermotec insulating tape and wrap the fuel rails. the hotter your engine bay gets, the greater the heat soak for everything in the engine compartment. wrap the rails and your fuel will stay cooler which will give you a small boost in low/mid range power. enough to feel? no but it will be there. (remember your truck weighs 5000 lbs more or less and small amounts of HP/TQ increases you wont feel). Another cheep mod to help you out is swapping out the plugs for autolite 3923's... said to be worth 5 hp or so. drop in that 180 deg t-stat anyway, your motors heads will appreciate it.

 

that was another consideration of mine the dealer did a cheap tune up to my truck but i want to use better plugs and wires so i will definately wrap the fuel rails and try the plugs you recomend. do you have any wire recomendations or cap recomendations thanks

 

stock cap & rotor... works best IMO. tired accell and a variety of others and the stockers held up better over the long term. MSD 8.5 superconductor wires are the way to go IMO... 40 ohms/foot, more spark energy to the plug, less across the wire.

 

thanks steve

 

glad to help!

 

someone recomended running dexcool instead of regular antifreeze they say that gm used it to cure a similar problem in late model gm diesels. can dexcool be used in a regular antifreeze system??

 

Yes it can but you must flush out all the green coolant first. (drain rad, heater coreand pull block drains as well and flush really good with lots of water)

I'm not aware that dexcool or any long life coolant does a better job of cooling it just last longer AFAIK...