true, i should. I just cant stand the advertisements cutting up the threads.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/dakot...s?msg=39388.11

this is what i found. Idiots guide to setting your fuel sync. now I just need to get a drb scanner for myself

 

Try calling Marty at KRC performance. They have those new SCT Flashers out now that maybe could fix it for you. $599 but you should gain a ton.

 

iv been thinking of that, but id prolly delve into that later, that would use up all my spare money for the semester. The sct flasher is actually a program you input into the flasher. Basicly, you run on the dyno, create your program, put it on the flasher, and flash your comp. So not only do you need to buy the flash, you need to buy the flasher, and an aftermarket pcm. (you can either buy a 3 try flash, or for another 200 bucks you can buy one that allows you as many flashes as you want (this is how i recall it works)

 

here's a possible option for you... I emailed an ebay seller on this and he mentions that this will set fuel trim...

 

thats interesting, and thanks for the heads up. Im going to try the low cost alternitives first, now that I know how to read it, and change it myself. I just need to go back to the dealer and get them to let me use their drb.

 

Okay, I understand now. I actually have mine 4 degree advanced, but mine is a heavy 4x4 QC so I need more in the bottom. Your truck is a lighter 2wd set up for racing so I can see why that would benefit you. Thanks for clarifying, I thought I was going to have to tear mine down again to change it! Good luck with your problem and I look forward to hearing how much of a gain you will get!

 

Well, unfortunately for scientific purposes the track was a bust. I only got 4 runs in, and it went pritty much the same as last time. Another 15.0 @ 89.9...the exception is though, this time I spun and got a 2.38 sixty as opposed to my good launch with a 2.268 for my last 15.0 @ 89.9. This time I also had to let off the gas more to let it shift....that is a really frusterating thing that is going to get fixed soon. So, as far as hardcore gains, no, like I expected, but theres obviously a little something more (my buddys comp dyno said Id loose 8 ft lbs at 3500rpm, but gain 12 hp at 4500 rpm, so it kinda worked out. My top end definately seemed to pull better. Cars that normally would just pick up and sail away were just rowing away at a slower pace last night it seemed. ( I did manage to beat an 04 SRT 4, I tree'd his eyes out!)

 

Any aftermarket scan tool should be able to set your sync signal. I know for a fact the OTC Genysis can do it (own one) and it is a very popular scan tool. It's found in the special test menu.Sync isn't critical. An easy way to get it close is torotate your engine till it reaches TDC #1 cyl.Remove distributor cap and mark position of the rotor. it should point directly at the wire terminal. if it doesn't line up rotate distributor until it does. This does not affect timing only distributor indexing.
You might want to set it so that the rotor is just passing #1 on way to #8 plug wire. Your engine always runs with some spark advance so your rotor would line up better with the terminal on the cap when the spark actually occurs.

 

Thats what I was thinking of doing.

I tried the mt 2500, but it refused to communicate with my truck for some reason. It was talking with it 2 days ago, but not yesterday.

 

I fixed the fuel sync without the help of a scanner. Im pritty good with diognosing things with my ear, so I figgured Id be able to get this problem nipped in the bud the good ol fashon way. Reached back there with a half inch, loosend the distributor clamp, and played with it a bit to get my bearings. There is a notch in there to let you know exactly where the factory setting is. I then proceded to start the truck, and turn my dash tack arround so thatI could see it from the engine bay. Then I played with the distributor. Turning it clockwise made the truck stall and shut down lol. Turning it counterclockwise is the direction I needed to turn it. I started with about a mm or two rotation and reved it up to 3000. No problems arose, so I went for a drive, the check engine light still came on. So I tried in small incriments untill I got it, which was about an Inch and a half rotation counter-clockwise. No check engine lights, and it does seem to be a little bit more together on the top. My popping and cracking all but dissapeared. It only gives me one pop when I let off the gas after wot, which is better than before I set the cam back. Thus ends another saga.