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It's not really meant for speed. It's meant for hauling capability. With that in mind, there are some things you can do to increase the power (since I think the 5.9 is a little underpowered for a 2500 as is anyway).
- Change fluids and plugs (this is a good habbit toget into with new vehicles)
- Round air cleaner setup
- 3" exhaust
- MSD ignition
- Bore and stroke the motor (408 baby)
- PCM flash
- Lower gear ratio (3.55s are good for diesels, not gas motors)

 

tr trust me no b/s here i got plenty of people who will vouch for me i ran a 23 my 1st time cuz i ran out of gas yea i ran out of gas went back with 1/2 tank n ran an 18.1 say bs again

 

its true... his cousins truck is a 97 ram 2500 4x4 slightly lifted on 33's the 6K was spent on a trans and the motor was bored 30 over, cammed, and he had intake and exhaust... to me his cousins truck never ran right... the burban runs pretty good for the truck it is.... so the numbers are no BS

 

I was calling the BS on the time the ram ran. Now that you say the truck never ran right it makes more sense, all that was needed was what you said to make it believable.

 

IMHO these particular parts will give you the most "bang for the buck" when it comes to total oomph. There are other support parts that will help put the puzzle together in the long run, but the individual gains aren't as high.

1) 4.10 or 4.56 gears. IMHO 4.30 would be perfect for these trucks, but they don't make that range for the Chrysler rear ends. You can play with tire diameters to balance it out though (ie: I have 4.56's with bigger tires). If you already have 3.92's in your truck (check the big decal on the axle, or the data sticker in the glove box) the 4.10's probably aren't worth the $$, but the 4.56's would... If you have 3.55's then either option would work well.
2) PCM Flash. The OEMPCM sucks. B&G Chrysler up in Michigan has the best PCM flash right now as far as power/features are concerned, but you have to send them your PCM in the mail with 48-hour turnaround, and it's permanent (as long as some dummy at the dealership doesn't try to flash over it). The hand-held tuners from Hypertech/Superchips are significantly more convenient and can be "unloaded" for servicing/etc. but don't pack quite the same punch.
3) Headers/Exhaust. The OEM exhaust manifolds/exhaust is pretty restrictive - I gained over a half-tenth in the quarter mile just by installing a set of Mopar headers & 3" single exhaust.
4) Mopar M1-2bbl intake manifold. If you're not going to tow a lot, get the M1-2bbl. You won't have the dreaded belly pan gasket issue that comes with the OEM intake manifolds. You may lose a tiny bit of hp on the bottom end, but you'll gain a bunch (as much as 50rwhp) from 3000+ rpm.

An air intake and tune-up (cap/rotor/plugs/wires) are standard. A throttle body or 1.7 rockers will help as well, but aren't as dramatic as the other parts above.

 

yea that things a big ol' mess everyone asks him "is that thing supercharged" na it just has soo many vacume leaks it just sounds that way oh yea n today we messed with some trans cable adjustment that leads up under the air box an the truck runs GREAT i mean it feels like its got 100 more hp so to speek n i found out its just an open rear but my brother says it aint soundin too great so when it blows LOCKERS BABY

 

hehe lockers and gears!!! still gotta do the tune up??

 

Before taking advice from some of the posters above
use the search function to read some of their other posts.

There was a phrase from the American Civil War:

"That guy could not pour water out of his boot
if the instructions were stamped on the sole."

Ryan at Shady Dell Speed Shop in State College PA
or Jesse Lackman at Revsearch in WY
or KRC Performance at Cocoa Beach FL
can give you expert advice on mods for the Magnum 5.9V8

or you can purchase this inexpensive recent book
written by a Chrysler engineer specializing in 5.9V8s for MP:

http://www.amazon.com/Build-Big-Inch...979&sr=8-1