Help with 4X4 - Page 2 - DodgeForum.com

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12-16-2007, 12:31 AM

mjrpaine

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RE: Help with 4X4

Quote:

ORIGINAL: dhvaughan

ok, don't panic yet.
going back a couple of posts.. you replaced vac line and you said the light was coming on.. IIRC the light is operated by the shift fork moving over towards drivers side, and depressing a plunger or making contact ? on the switch. the same shift fork takes the coupling collar with it, which slides over the splines of the two axle halves. if you are getting a light - but no coupling, then something seems wrong to me. could your shifting fork be on backwards ??? there is an offset, and there is a right and a wrong way for it to be installed. take a second look at this.

Yes, I know how the VAC works. The fork is on correctly and does slide, but the shift collar is unable to slide over the left side axle shaft to connect it into 4wd. The actuator moves just enough for it to trip the switch and put my dash light on, but due to the axles not being lined up, it will not go into gear.

Quote:

also, in order for the coupling to slide over, the axles must align, so forgive me for stating what you probably already know, but for best testing put the truck up safely on 4 jack stands or lift, where you can rotate, test, observe what happens. and unfortunately to test the cad while you watch, you either have to have engine running or a hand vac pump to simulate vac - so safety first !

I have had the truck in the air and used a vacuum pump to get the actuator to work. It does work properly (as did the one I took out). Also as I stated, I can use a screwdriver and lift the axle and slide the collar over the two axles. Unfortunetly, It will not stay locked in if I put it there and have the lever in 4wd. I tried that just to get thru this storm I am going to be getting tonight and into tomorrow.

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yes, there is an inner bearing/bushing ? but there was a thread about this time last year from someone who had a similar problem, and i thought he replaced a bushing ? either way, its servicable. it could be expensive, because based on year and mileage, you may end up replacing a lot of worn out parts such as hub bearings, u-joints, seals, maybe even ball joints..

Ok in that manual .... the picture on 3-28 shows #5 being a seal. I believe this is what is wrong at this moment, but Im notsure... there is about a 1/8 difference in height between the two axles (and a total of 1/4 in. of play) when I move it with a screwdriver. As far as what has been replaced .... I have done almost the whole front end over in the last 6 months. Both upper and lower B-joints, all pads and rotors, both axle u-joints, r. hub assembly, inner and outer tie rod, inner tie rod end, both shocks, steering box, idle control sensor. So there really isnt much more to fix ... other than new calipers .. lol. I called the dealership to ask them what this kind fo job would cost .... they said it would be $8oo just in labor .... and that it would take atleast 8 - 10 hours, and add more depending on parts.

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