Id check your throttlebody, probably durty....mine would stall when cold because it got all gumbed up because i would put in 93 and then i dropped it back down to regular and it didnt agree. I used to run 93 all the time and i had no problems, shell has the best i think because of the amount of detergent they use. Id try adding a heavier oil too, im using 20-50, helps alot with compression problems in older engines and of course protects better. When my truck idles rough i know its time for an oil change and it always fixes the problem. But if its really bad its probably your throttle body but may also be a compression problem so try adding a can of restore with your next oil change.

 

My truck was built thirty miles from my house (at the Fenton, MO plant) and it's a piece of crap as far as all the stuff I've had to fix on it. I don't agree with our manufacturing jobs going to Mexico either but I don't think that's the reason for your problems. I think Dodge owners have a secret need for punishment that causes them to buy these things! I like mine.......but I'm getting tired of working on it also.

Try removing and cleaning your IAC motor to help with your idleing problem. It's on the back of the throttlebody in case you don't know.

 

I have a question for the Engineer for DaimlerChrysler: I too am not trying to start any arguement here, so take this as a legit question. What's up with the Magnum series 360 Cylinder heads cracking between the Intake and Exhaust valves?? I've done a bit of research on this subject, and even Mopar is selling reman 360 Magnum crate engines with NEW cylinder heads. Tells me that they know of the problem but aren't and haven't done a thing about it.

Why am I asking this? My engine was messing up for about a year and a half until it finally set a code and acted up in front of my mechanic. Turned out both cylinder heads had cracks as I described. Most wrecking yards don't sell heads for these engines because of this problem, and machine shops have said that if the head is already cracked, the head is now junk.

Just curious as I can't find any TSB's, recalls, or anything on the subject, other than lots of references in this forum (some of them mine).

 

I'm pretty new to Ram ownership (just bought my truck a couple of months ago), but over the years I have owned Nissan trucks, a Honda, Fords, Saturns, a Jeep and an old Lincoln. Had a few problems w/ each of them, in fact one of the worst cars I ever owned was a Honda Civic - never ran right and nothing made any sense. They're all a crapshoot but my "pre-owned" Ram hauls/tows great, it looks good, drives great, is comfortable and I really like it compared to a Ford or a GM truck. I have friends who have had problems w/ their full size trucks (new heads on a 350 Tahoe w/ 65k miles, trashed motor on a Trooper w/ 80K miles, major suspension problems on an Expedition and a bad automatic tranny on a Ram) -- they all have their own problems that are associated with each design. It's just a vehicle though - you can always sell it or trade it in on a different truck. As for me, it's kind of like dating a good looking woman w/ some miles on her....everybody knows you're probably going to get into some trouble but it'll likely be a good time.

 

I've notice that with mine. I don't have the 360, but the 318. I usually let the engine for about 10 seconds and it takes care of itself. Its done that since I've owned the truck. As for pinging and knocking. I've experienced that couple of times and from my experience, it depends on where and when you purchase your gas.

As a rule of thumb, if the tanker truck is there, I will go somewhere else. When the put new fuel into the tanks, it dredges up all of the sediment what the filters from the pumps don't catch gets put in your tank...

 

Try running a bottle of SEAFOAM through the TB, Vacuum hose, and gas tank. Pour about 1/3 of a can in each location while the engine is running, (pour very slowly in the TB because it will want to stall) let run for 10 minutes, turn off engine, let sit for about 20 minutes, start it up and run it pretty hard. Make sure to do it in a well ventalated area because it will smoke like a b*tch!! That will clean any carbon build up, and should help. I know my idle smoothed out when I did it on my 99 318. Good luck!!

 

This is going to sound crazy, but I had the same problem w/ my truck - even posted a question on Dodgeforum about it. A friend later suggested something that has worked - try depressing the gas pedal all the way to the floorboard once (like it's an old automatic choke) before you try to start your truck. Then when it starts, after about ten or twenty seconds, just kick the gas pedal a little once (up to around 1500 rpm - like you are cleaning out a carb). Walla....my truck idles normally....

Black magic????? Could be, but he said there's a "detent ??" on some throttle bodies that sets at a certain level when the engine temperature is normal, but needs to be reset when it is cold. Don't know about all that, but it worked on mine. Might want to give it a shot.....