Great forum, I've had my 2000 Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 gas for a year, just found this forum.

This truckwas bought in as stock conditionas one could be so I don't think anything was ever changed on it, the badges on the cab are SLT larimie, I thought this was the top option, including many interior options.

But, I dont have power seatsor the compass/temp, is this correct? Can i install a salvage yard Compass/temp unit easy enough or is the wiring going to be a pain? (i've done aftermarket mirror ones before)

any easy way to make the power windows work in the normal position?

I don't have any remote FOB for the doors (door locks) I dont know if they were lost or just didn't come with, any way to tell if i just need to get new FOBs and program them or what?

I go off road often, and would like a front tow point/tow hook, what is best solution? is there a factory bolt on?

Does anyone make a front sway bar quick disconect? (I have mine un-bolted and tied itup for now, highway handling not bad with the HD suspension, offroad made huge improvement)

from this forum I learned about possible cat plugging, I have not yet tested it, but will, the truck has 130,000mi and driving it just feels like it is always loaded with a 1000lbs, just slugish, (I towed a jeep from Phx to Moab and it was a slug on the hills and most of the way there,I will only tow like this once or twice a year the rest of time just a couple quads and light trailer)

It has an aftermarket intake/filter on it now but had sameproblems with the stockbox

There is a very distintive hissing comming from the throttle body area liketoward the back of engine, you can here it all the timeunder any acceleration, when I first bought the truckI went over it completly and could not find where the vacum leak likesound was coming from (I have done plugs, cap, rotor, fluids, fuel pump, adjusted tv cable) I haven't done ign. wires yet

does this sound like a bad or sticking IAC or have i got something else going on?

The tranny was low in fluid about 2 qts when i got it, all i did was addlucas transfix and ad fluid it winned a little beforeI did this and seems fine now, my transmission guytold me "leave it alone" just treat it right and don't change fluid or use OD whenclimbing gradesor towing, all seems fine

THANKS in Advance.

J...

 

dang, that's a lot of questions. that many questions will create a hell of a messy thread. but anyway, welcome to df and here goes.

any easy way to make the power windows work in the normal position?
sorry don't understand this question.

would like a front tow point/tow hook, what is best solution?
3 or 4 options. 1) stand alone front receiver hitch. 2) big heavy bumper/bull bar with integrated tow hooks and receiver hitch (a friend of mine recently hit a deer, filed insurance, and replaced damaged stock items w/ a very nice front bumper/bull system from a place in texas for about the same $ as a stock repair) 3) factory tow hooks. 4) custom tow hooks.
factory tow hooks available from dealer. they also sometimes show up used on ebay or forums. i bought a set on ebay for $60, but have not seen any there in a while.
none listed here now, but generally are there for $119.
http://stores.ebay.com/CHRYSLER-WINO...8Q2em118QQtZkm
also check with forum member parts/service. dodge parts man in Ga. good guy.
also forum member 'godramit' hasn't been around much lately, but he fabricated some towhook brackets exactly like the stock ones, that wrapped around the frame rail and cross member and provided a mounting point for the hook. last i heard he was not making them anymore, but he's out there somewhere.. and might make some on request, have some left over.

very distintive hissing comming from the throttle body.
replace gasket under TB. only $2. also check/replace rubber gasket on top of TB where air box connects (it often gets lost). only $1 or $2. check vac lines on passenger side, there are a lot of them (firewall-heater controls. tcase-4wd. front-cruise). also pcv, brake boost, etc. try plugging them ALL, and then reconnecting one at a time to see if culprit emerges. IAC will always hiss at idle as air is pull down through that port. check IAC for o-ring around the body as it often gets lost. IAC is only active during idle, once you press the gas and the tb plates open its pretty much out of the loop. if you do replace it, keep the old one, as i've had trouble recently getting good IAC's and have now gone through 2 bad ones (autozone) and going after a third new one today.

add lucas trans fix and ad fluid it winned a little before I did this and seems fine now, my transmission guy told me "leave it alone"
you'll get a lot of different opinions here... here's mine. stock dodge trans has weak points and is prone to expensive failure, especially with the OD parts, the solenoids, and the TCC. i think its best to change fluid and filter frequently (every 24k), add a cooler and a drain plug. never use anything except ATF+4, and hope for the best. if/when it fails, then buy a rebuilt one from either Jasper or Fastman or APS or other rebuild house, and not sink $2000 into a rebuild process that is extremely dependent on who the rebuilder is, and his experience level, and what he does (or doesn't do).

 

"any easy way to make the power windows work in the normal position?"

should of said normal ignition switch position, my windows only work in the "on" position

any ideas on interior options or remote for door lockswith SLT Larimie?


Thanks, dhvaughan and sorry for the all in one question post
J.

 

My windows also only work when the ignition is in the "ON" or "engine running" position also. They don't work when the key is turned to accessories.

You could go under the dash, locate the wires leading to your windows, and then connect them to different wires that are hot when the key is in the position you desire. just make sure they still work when the key is on or you won't be able to open them when driving.