very true.
my goal for today was to simply try and find one that said made in usa, rather than heche en mexico.

we have a plant nearby that's now empty. it used to be Cummins (piston rings), then it became something else, a subsidiary of Cummins, then it was Allied Signal, then it was Federal Mogul, then it moved out of the country and now its a closed up factory. [:@]

 

I had that idle problem a while back before I replaced my iac motor. After I replaced it.. it still acted up until it relearned it self like a week later. Never had a problem with cold idle startup since then until now. It's very irronic that I saw this post tonight because I had a real bad cold idle startup this afternoon in my buddys driveway. She would rev up... watch the needle drop and I sware my engine sounded mean, but not the reason I wanted her to sound that way. She sounded like she had a real agressive cam (..ha! i wish) but it really sounded like it was "missing". She did this a few times and i took her out to open her up a bit. Normally the truck has a little shake to it when cold, but she was really shaking bad when I started her up. Idk what her problem is... but shes working so thats enough for me right now. Btw, when I replaced my iac, it was SMP brand.

 

I just replaced mine last night with an Autozone part. I hope it lasts longer than a couple of days. Wish I had seen this thread before I went to the store.

I got 206k miles out of the original one.

 

I just replaced mine with one from Autozone as well, I still have the original one that is still in working shape. I only replaced it with this one thinking that that was my problem with my engine but turned out to be a bad 6 month old Accel performance coil. I never had a problem with anything i've bought over the yrs from them but every store is different i guess. If this one craps out i'll toss the old one bad in hehe.

 

ok, this is just not working out.
quick review.
#1 original one (to me) worked wonderful, cold idle at steady 1000 rpm, warm idle at 600, all was well until one day it began surging at cold idle, then got worse, then died at idle.

#2. smp brand. worked perfect out of the box. no learning curve. lasted about 10 months. then it started surging at cold idle 1000 -1500 -1000 -1500 up/down, up/down.

#3. autozone brand. worked perfect out of the box. no learning curve. lasted about 2-3 weeks, then started surging at cold idle.

#4. autozone brand. bad out of the box. fast/slow, die, surge, die, code p0123.

#5. advance - GP brand. surges/ high cold idle - up around 1700-1800. i gave it a couple weeks learning curve. didn't get any better. funny thing i notice - when cold idle is very high 1800, i could lay my foot on the gas pedal and press very lightly, and idle would drop to normal 1000. remove foot from gas and it'd jump back up high.

#6. advance - GP brand. very high cold idle out of the box 2000 rpm, generally calms down to 600 when warm, sometimes hangs at 1000 warm. pcm seems to be learning it, maybe, or maybe outside temp is warmer, but cold idle was about 1500 tonight. warm idle ok tonight. same thing with the other one, when cold idle is too fast, if i lay my foot on the gas, idle will drop to 1000. its only been a couple days, so i haven't given up on this one yet, but its not looking good.

anyone think i may have some other problem thats causing the high cold idle (1500-1800) ?
TPS ? its about 1.5 - 2 years old.
IAT ? intake air temp sensor. could it be telling pcm that its like -100*, so it should idle fast.
truck is 01, so no EGR valve.

edit.. recently had t-stat fail (no heat, no warm up). replaced it sunday. warming up normal to 180*. heat ok. temp gauge reading normal. no check engine lights.

 

It's possibleTPS or IAT could be faulty but without a scan tool that would be difficult to diagnose. I don't know off hand what voltages should be to check with a DVOM
I've never heard of someone going through so many IAC motors.
If its a high idle problem it is possible you have a vacuum leak and IAC is closing further than expected. That can cause surging.

 

#1 original one (to me) worked wonderful, cold idle at steady 1000 rpm, warm idle at 600, all was well until one day it began surging at cold idle, then got worse, then died at idle.

#2. smp brand. worked perfect out of the box. no learning curve. lasted about 10 months. then it started surging at cold idle 1000 -1500 -1000 -1500 up/down, up/down.

#3. autozone brand. worked perfect out of the box. no learning curve. lasted about 2-3 weeks, then started surging at cold idle.

#4. autozone brand. bad out of the box. fast/slow, die, surge, die, code p0123.

#5. advance - GP brand. surges/ high cold idle - up around 1700-1800. i gave it a couple weeks learning curve. didn't get any better. funny thing i notice - when cold idle is very high 1800, i could lay my foot on the gas pedal and press very lightly, and idle would drop to normal 1000. remove foot from gas and it'd jump back up high.

#6. advance - GP brand. very high cold idle out of the box 2000 rpm, generally calms down to 600 when warm, sometimes hangs at 1000 warm. update - cold idle staying about 1500-1800. warm idle ok. exact same behavior as the other one. when cold idle is too fast, if i lay my foot on the gas, idle will drop to 1000. gave it a week. didn't get it any better.

#7. different store - SMP brand. perfect out of the box. fires up cold and jumps to about 1200 for a second, and then instantly drops to about 1000. warm idle about 600. very normal, no surging, no dieing, no BS. it works exactly like its supposed to.

 

Do you guys disconnect the battery before you swap out the IAC? I replaced mine a couple days ago with a duralast one from Autozone but didnt disconnect the battery before. (only thing open.. kept stalling) Now im getting the surging cold idle and occasional stall/stumble at low idle. I have the warranty there so im hoping i can get a good one. They only sell duralast at autozone.

 

I didn't unplug my battery before I changed mine but then agian my battery was completely dead. I bought my IAC at Pepboys for $45 and it's made in America. The brand was BWD. Not sure but it looks like a Nascar backed product. The nascar logo is all over it. I had some surging at cold idle but it seems to of gone away. Might of just been the PCM figuring things out.

 

Why not just go to the dealer and get one? I know they probably cost more but man it seems like everyone has the ones from the parts stores die all the time. I'm a firm believer that even though it costs more a lot of OEM parts from the dealer are worth it. I used to get everything from parts stores but it just seems like it isn't the quality of OEM and doesn't last anywhere near the time of OEM so I've started getting a lot of stuff from the dealer now.

I've had good luck with Napa and Fisher parts for the most part.

I however have not had good luck with Advance Auto Parts and never really tried Autozone stuff but it seems to be not as good too from everything I've heard. It just seems like everything I buy from Advance that isn't a name brand dies pretty quickly. I had a buddy that used to work at Advance and kept saying that I was wrong and the Advance stuff was quality until about 6 months later he started telling me you remember how you told me Advance stuff sucks. I was like yeah and he goes well, you were right as the stuff I used is starting to fail on my car. He had his headlight switch go out on his VW around 6 months after getting it.

I like Advance for name brand stuff like bulbs, oil and filters, sometimes gaskets, or hard to find parts if I need them right away. The biggest thing about Advance is it's open late and has a lot in stock. I put a GP Sorgeson or whatever it is brand from Advance on my Honda for the brake light switch and while it does seem to work fine it just felt super cheap compared to the OEM one that lasted 220k miles.

I personally usually stay with Napa, Fishers, or the Dealer. Unless it's a well known brand from Fishers and something I think will last from Napa I stay with dealer parts a lot.

It's like when I worked at a shop some of the parts from Fishers we used just were bad out of the box. It tought me go pay the extra for OEM parts in most cases.