i'm looking at a 1999 Dodge Ram Sport. it's got a mild lift (i think 3' supspension, don't know for sure), with 305/70r16 bfg muds that need replacing.

360 v8, auto, 4x4, extended cab, 6ft box. 96,000mi.

runs good, appears to have a valve cover leak, no biggie. column shifter is stiff, but a tech i work with says it just needs lubrication, that it's nothing with the linkage.

4wheel system works good, but grinds if put into 4low slowly. seems to take awhile to shift from 2hi to 4hi (5sec.), but maybe that's the sensor, because i can't feel it engage when the truck isn't moving.

body is straight with a little rust at the bottom of the doors and the top of the rear fenders.

it'ssomewhere from $5500-$6000.

good deal? and are the issues i mentioned common and easily and cheaply fixed, or is this truck a futureproblem i should pass up?

also, what sort mpgs could i expect on 50/50 highway/city if i don't beat on it?

thanks in advance.
John.

 

I think that is a little much for that truck with those issues. The grinding sound sounds expensive.

 

welcome to df.

runs good, appears to have a valve cover leak, no biggie. column shifter is stiff, but a tech i work with says it just needs lubrication, that it's nothing with the linkage.
good felpro valve cover gaskets, about $35-40.
column shifter - not sure, never heard any complaints about this.

4wheel system works good, but grinds if put into 4low slowly.
shift into 4low should always be done at stop or barely rolling, in neutral, and then shifted HARD and fast from 2hi thru neutral to 4low. there are no synchronizers. do not shift slow, do not pause in neutral. if you get stuck in neutral, turn off engine, finish shift, then re-start.

seems to take awhile to shift from 2hi to 4hi (5sec.), but maybe that's the sensor, because i can't feel it engage when the truck isn't moving.
5 sec engagement time of crappy vacuum operated CAD is normal.
it generally does not engage while sitting still, it has to roll a little to pull the shift fork over. does not disengage while sitting still either.

body is straight with a little rust at the bottom of the doors and the top of the rear fenders.
paint and body is very expensive when you pay someone else to do it.

it'ssomewhere from $5500-$6000.
seems too expensive to me. i'd feel better at $5000. maybe less depending on the rust. test drive the truck extensively, 15-20 miles to let the transmission come up to temp and see if it continues to act normal, or does it start experiencing shudder, or shifting problems. if it does, then you just discovered why its for sale. tranmission is about $1500+, plus installation.

good deal? and are the issues i mentioned common and easily and cheaply fixed, or is this truck a futureproblem i should pass up?
its all normal for a 99. other things that are normal are leaking plenum, transmission failure $$$$, cracked dash $$$, and sloppy steering $$.

also, what sort mpgs could i expect on 50/50 highway/city if i don't beat on it?
ha ha. 12-14 city. 13-16 hwy.

 

Being its on a 3 inch suspension lift, with bigger tires then stock, the gas milage will drop some. Check the gearing, im on 3 inch body / 3 inch suspension lift with 37's, and its still using 3.55 stock gear. im averaging 9 - 12 MTG.

You say it needs new tires, make sure you include the price of them in what you end up paying, they can be costly.