Update: I'm getting two new rear wheel cylinders and a master cylinder. I'll be going the 3500 whel cylinder swap since I'm getting new ones.
We figured out the problem is in the rear. When the rear breaks are cut off, or closed off, the pedal is stiff as hell, and the front calipers work great.

So new master cylinder, and new wheel cylinders are coming my way.

bad news is, I won't havemy truck back until most likely tuesday.

 

your welcome 3500 wheelcylinders. dam kids no consideration

 

Did you try bleeding them more? I have a feeling that you are putting parts on there you don't need but oh well. I may be wrong. I'd guess they got air in the rear lines and just bled the front which it sounds like is all they did. I'd always bleed the rear too.

 

^^ Wheel, a master cylinder is only $40 including the core charge. I'll just be replaceing it later on and since we have the entire braking system apart, why not replace it now?
And I'm getting new wheel cylinder's because the bleeder screws are completely shot. They got thme out, and back in, but they don't seal very well anymore.

And a question about the wheel cylinder bore's. it says my truck has a 15/16" bore. And there are mulitple bore sizes for the 3500. Anyone know which is a good broe size that won't be too much for my master cylinder to handle?

Thanks again everybody.

 

i believe the 3500 chevy wheel cyl are 1 1/16" bore. some people have successfully done this swap, others report problems. aim4squirrel tried it and something didn't work out right, and his adjuster or something fell out and ruined the drum. so if you try something, check your fits carefully. if you go visit rockauto.com, you can see the chevy, plus all the dodge variations. note that the later model dodge lists a left and a right. the only difference is the angle of the threading where the line screws in. older model dodge and the chevy's screw in at 90*, and the left and right are the same. you can use these with just a slight rebend of the brake line.

 

am having problems with mine also. i took my bearing/hub off to check, and repaked them. put a new spindle nut on, and torqued to 185 lbs. replaced caliper, for dust covers were destroyed. new pads. and hooked line up. put more fluid in, but brakes were none. bleed front 6 times each, but still, pedal all way to floor. ABS light was on, so i found about computer system, and then disconnected battery for 5 minutes. reconnected again, and bleed lines. now it seems i just touch pedal, and it STOPS. when i am ideling, put into drive, there seems to be a drag from my brakes, like just gasing a little, it seems to be braking. when i travel just a little, the rear brakes lock up when pedal is just touched. any ideas on what i need to check. asking, when i put the spindle nut on, and torqued to 185 lbs., do i need to back of any? di i need to bleed rear also, like i see in other post? hope i not making it confusing. appreciate your help. Jimmy