Posted the other day that I was skipping and I decided to switched out the distributer, wires and plugs...
Starting off, the distributer cap screws won't budge and the heads are stripping...so I started on the plugs. Got 7 out and just had the last one snap off. The entire ceramic tip to tip came out in one piece along with the 5/8 hex head. The threads are still in there. I can see down into the cylinder thru the hole left by the electrode.
What is the easiest way to get this out?? I just started soaking it in WD-40. I figure the ez out method is probably the only way to go. How often are folks successful trying it?
I thought I was fuked not getting the dist cap off but NEVER have I snapped a plug.

 

ya you said it your fuked.well there r a bunch of different kinds of easy outs so buy the best one you could find.maybe if you could find a reverse thread tap and revrs thead bolt, and when you drill the plug dont drill all the way thru, so u dont get any thing in the cylnder.let us know what you did.

 

Maine and dodge trucks ... just aren't a good mix.

 

When you get it out and start to put the new plugs in, put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and torque to 30 ft. lbs.You won't have that problem again.Good luck.

 

you said it man.

is the part where the socket grips gone as well? if its just the tips, you can still get them off. If not, your gonna have to prolly pull the head and get a tap and dye kit.

reinstall, that anti seize works wonders.

 

Yeah, the part the socket grabs and all the ceramic came out. Just the threads are left. ONLY good thing is that it is cylinder 4 and it is accessable. Do you have to snap off the heat shield tube to get in there? How do you get it off?
I think I am going to leave it alone today and just spray it down with more WD-40 and let it have a good soak for a full day. Plus it's snowing out and getting windy as a bastard.
For those of you who have succeeded in getting one of these out where did you get the ez-out at? I don't want to buy a **** one and have that snap off in there too.
Will try to post a pic if I can figure that out...

 

Just picked up a set of extractors at Napa. Ran into a older guy there who had a couple snap on and ol car he was working on. He suggested the squared extractor rather than the spiral. He also said he had to heat the rest of the plug with a torch and he was able to pull it out.
I don't have a torch but I do have the propane and the mapp gas small torches. Do they get hot enough?
I have it soaking right now in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil spray but still have to get the heat shield tube off. Not having much luck there either. Just banging it up but it isn't budging...this friggin sucks!

 

The heat shield should just pull out of the head

Any amount of heat will help get the plug out, sometimes with a torch you can get out of hand and melt Sh*t........so maybe the little propane torch is best

 

Can you seen into the cylinder? if you can i personally wouldn't bother trying to extract it.. remove the head as you probably have debrise such as proceline down in the chamber and i wouldn't risk the fact that some people say it will just get ejected with the exhaust. take the head off and you will also have ample working room as well as a reverse working method from the bottom side. i haven't remove my head from the truck but the cars that i have its not that big of a deal... about a half day of work at a easy pace. go out and get a gasket and head bolts(not sure if they are reusable on this engine but usually not unless you have a quality aftermarket bolts or studs) before you get it all torn apart to make sure that your parts dealer has them in stock and get some gasket remover and assembly lube. good time to check all your valves pushrods and lifters(are they hydrolic?)

Hope this helps ya decide what todo and remember worse case senario you have to buy a new head and that's what, 200 bucks for a used good condition head?

 

If you are using a square easy-out , STOP. the best thing to use is the short stubby spiral styleAfter 40 yrs as machinest and welder I foundthis stye works better because it has more gripping surface and does not cut and screw up the material asbad as the sqare style. I doubt that the propane tourch will heat it enough to make any sizeable difference as it will not heat enough of the surface to expand the material as the heat disapates to fast. If you have destroyed the inside of the hole bad enough that the easy out will not grip you will have to measure the inside of the hole by using different size drill bits. When you find one that is a snug fit go to the next size up and drill out the whole very carefullty BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO LET THE DRILL BIT GRAB AND FORCE ITS SELF IN THE THE CAVITY, IT WILL DAMAGE THE PISTON IF ITS NEAR TDC ) The best way to prevent thei is to feather the trigger on the drill.and use a battery operated drill on slow speed. Dip the drill bit in grease to stop the chips from going in the cyl... If all else fails you can always drill out the hole and install a heili coil. But that is another chapter . If you need other instructions you will always find the answer here on the forum. Good luck ,take your time and have a cool 6 pack handy and every time you complete one operation have another cool one and think abt what to do next. This is not a hard job if you think your way thru it BTW what are you using to twist the easy-out dont use a adjustable wrench it will go off center and screw the whole thing up. Go buy the correct tap handle and save your self a lot of misery and $$$. Terry-----------------Tboss