found the link. its http://www.national4wdonline.com/car...ategory_id=854 it costs 221 bucks. to me it was a great install. now i rarely worry about the sliding collar. only when i get in really deep mud.

 

go with svehn, I have been wanting to do a posi-lok myself, but I need gears and a spool first

 

same thing happened to my truck bout a week ago it came down to being a plastic vac line broke replaces wit rubber works perfect took 5 mins to fix...

 

I just got done fixing my vacuum lines that run along the frame on the passenger side, they rusted out and i was losing vacuum,same symtems your having. I went to the dealer to get the lines they told me $216 bucks,I went to the auto parts store got two 3/16" brake lines and bent them to fit for $6 bucks.

 

Where does the CAD actually pull vacuum from? I have seen the diagrams, but wondered where the source comes from. Reason I ask, I have the same problem and have also had vacuum related Cruise Control issues (saw the TSB with the post-battery meltdown and am fixing that as well)...

Just curious, I know there are a couple things involved when the lever goes into 4H or 4L, trying to chase it piece by piece to find out where the culprit lies.

Thanks!

 

WHAT? What dealership was that? I got my steel lines from the dealership for $25.00. its the steel lines and the front rubber lines to the CAD.
Here is my post with a pic of the part.
https://dodgeforum.com/fb.asp?m=1196012

indyram1500 if you need that part, PM me and I will get you the part number off my invoice.

 

I would have to say it's the CAD. On your front axle on the right/passenger side you will see the unit with 4 bolts holding it in place. If you remove those 4 bolts pull the unit off. With the truck on but NOT running move your 4x4 lever inside your truck. The fork that sticks out that unit should move from one side to the other. Your 4x4 light is controlled by that fork moving all the way over to the left and pushing on the sensor. Nine out of ten times it seem to be the vacuum motor as they get mositure in them and then the diaphram stops working. The motor alone is usually $150 - $250 depending on where you get them from. I changed mine to a posi-lok system for $15 by using a locking throtle cable that I drilled through the housing and attached to the fork. Very easy to do. I'm back to using the vacuum pump again as I found a good one at a salvage yard as I needed a new fork. Then of course I spaced out putting enough gear oil back into the system and burnt out another fork by the friction and NO gear oil to keep it cool. So I ended up having to buy another fork. So all in all mine ended up costing me $115, but if I would of pulled my head out of my butt the first time and topped it off with the gear oil, it would of only been $15 for the cable to change it over to the posi-loc.

I would check around your local salvage first as you might find yourself a good unit for only a few bucks.

Good luck!!

 

Something else cheap and easy to try (just worked for me)

After tracing all the vacuum lines and making sure I had no leaks (replaced a few along the way) I just pulled the 2 lines off the CAD and squirted some PB (penetrating blaster) in there. Let it sit a few minutes, and then started the truck, and cycled it in/out of 2H and 4H to get that vacuum pot to try to move the fork back and forth..

POOF! it works again. I had a cracked vacuum line going to the CAD somewhere along the way, and I think I managed to get moisture in there, causing it to stick. 1001 uses for Penetrating Blaster!