I currently have "RAM HORN" headers and thinking about replacing them.Mine are "knock-offs", I thought I was saving money, but they are just more headaches. The flange is in the way of plug removal so bad that the boot actually touches the flange. There is noway that the OEM heat shields would have worked with these headers. Anyway to the questions:

1. I have a killer time trying to get to all of the bolts, are these like that too? At first they look like these are a pain, but the more I studied the pics, I think it may actually be pretty easy to get to the bolts from the top. Am I correct?

2. another concernare my newMSD wires, how is the routing? Looks like I'd have to "bend" the plug boots upward, or is the enough room for them to"loop" upward?Then it looks like they would route back above the headers, is this correct?

3. Finally, what about spark plug replacement, looks like kind of a tough job.(mine is currently near impossible)

I thought about grinding spark plug "relieves" into my flanges, and may still go that route, just looking at all options. I try to think of all avenues before any making purchases. Especially if I am fixxing a screw up, LOL! Anyway thanks in advance, I love this site, there are plenty of knowledgable guys that love to help out! And the responses come fast too! Thanks!!!!

 

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I have had the gibson headers for about 4 years now. Being that hindsight is 20/20 here is what I would change. 1) get the copper exhaust gaskets to put on. It might of changed in the last couple years but the ones that came with mine were some cheap thick paper and I had to replace them later on. 2) Dont get the chrome covered ones. I did and boy am I sorry. They almost instantly began to discolor and now mine look like crap. I have thought of removing them and getting them ceramic coated. 3) They are somewhat difficult to bolt in. I have thought about using some of the hex head bolts instead. Only bad part you couldnt use them for all the bolts because of the piping there is no straight shot to the bolt. The way it is now you can only use a crescent wrench and turn a couple of them an 1/8 of turn at a time. I think the very front bolt is the only one you can put a socket on. So torquing them correctly is difficult. Well now for the good side. They sound great and noticeda big difference in performance. Well hope that helps

 

Thanks for the response, I wonder why they are bent like this. I have PLENTY of room in my engine bay for them to reroute the tubes and make them more "bolt-up friendly"! Oh, well. I guess I'll stick with mine and grind out some 8 spots for plug removal. Thanks for saving me time and money!

 

Long tube or shorties....I have the gibson shorties.. ...I could get the 4 outter most bolts with a socket and torque wrench.. the rest were gotten with either an open end or closed wrench.. really not too difficult for me.. I am still retorqueing them every couple days or at least once a week right now.. but honestly... ever since the first 2 or 3 real heat up cool down sessions.. they havent loosened any... the new gasket is actually pretty nice... not paper.. some kind of composite I guess.. ?? not sure... my plugs are fine... I run the straight bootes.. stock heat sheilds.... have changed my plugs with no more problems then usual... ( back drivers a reach.. but not impossible..) I did have to get creative on one bolt.. the second to last on the drivers side....I can get to it from under the truck, ( sliding my hand up by the starter..) with a wrench.. or... once its started.. I can get to it from ontop as well.. just really have to be ontop of the motor..LOL I will say this.. the only way I got that one bolt started was to keep the header really loose.. ( almost ready to fall off..) with the other bolts until I got that one started with my finger tips.. then got the wrench on it and no prob from there...The Gibsons are one of the better designed ones out there....they tried as much as they can without compromising the flow design to make it accessible.. ( dimples in some tubes so you can get a small closed end wrench on the bolt..) the flanges are cut well... no interference ...my wires are fine.. I've had no problems..... so far
where clean mechanics gloves when you install... your fingers will leave oil which will stain on them when they heat up.. ( on stainless...dont have the coated ones..)

 

Wow, nice reply. Thanks for the in depth description. I haven't totally made up my mind. But I will give it careful consideration. Oh, BTW I have the shorties also, guess I didn't think to give that detail. Anyway, I was really paying attention to the flanges today and noticed some rust coming through the coating.I THOUGHT these were suposed to be stainless, I mean they looked like the tubes. Since then, I looked at the old pics I took before coating them, nowI see a major difference in appearance.I grabbed a magnet and low and behold, it stuck to the flanges, but not the tubes. So, I guess the grinding wouldn't be very difficult. I am more familiar with steel than stainless. The only problem is it will rust at the grinding locations! DESCISIONS, DESCISIONS, DESCISIONS!!!!!!!!!!