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Engine Operation (lengthy)

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Old 04-22-2008, 10:08 PM
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Default Engine Operation (lengthy)

Well, I got to install the plenum pan. Boy, the old one looked crrrrrrappy. Too bad I didn't have my digital, I would have had tons of pics for yall. Nothing is installed back in yet, as I am on hold for removing the fan clutch from the water pump, and may have to reinstall it GR!. But if I do that, i'll try and figure out how to break the tension on the sprocket bolt where the harmonic balancer is some redneck kind of way. I will be trying to get ahold of a mechanic though, so come 6 pm I should have everything taken apart and ready to go back in. I bought a bunch of stuff, and when I'm done I'll write on this thread what the costs and all have been. I know I paid a bit much for my intake gaskets (30 from NAPA) but those guys have helped me out so I support their business. I tried to drain the engine from the drain plugs, and not knowing exactly where they were I tried to guess via the Haynes picture (which sucks). I screwed what I figured would be the drain plug, as it didnt go into any bracket, pan or pulley, and wasn't attached to a frame. But nothing came out. Tried the philips in the hole and all I did was hit steel, so There's a little coolant left near the rear. I plan on reflushing all of this stuff when I do my heater core, so I was particular worried about the radiator being flushed more than anything.

So far the teardown was smooth. Now, I did the teardown with the shroud on most of the time. I couldn't stand in there with it out (don't ask how I did it, but the fan blade was still on while the shroud was not) anyway because of the sway bar. Not sure how everyone else did unless a 4x4 has a different setup across that section. Lots of brake cleaner. Gone through 3 cans already. PB Blaster is a must, and I specifically mean PB Blaster. Stuff is amazing. 5 Hoses should be replaced; 2 heater hoses which I got at 1.39 a foot (got 8 feet to cover everything), a By Pass hose I got from Summit (2.79) and two radiator hoses, upper, lower, both from summit (about 25 for both). Those were the best buy I could find, the summit hoses are goodyear and IDK what NAPA's is.

Just writing this up for anyone else that may be doing this, have done this and could help out, or is thinking about doing it. Thankfully I can type about 110 wpm so this hasn't taken too much time, lol.
 
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:48 PM
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Default RE: Engine Operation (lengthy)

go rent a tool for removing fan clutch bolts. its a fairly simple contraption that will do the job in a jiffy. (it looks like long pry bars with wrench ends) I wasn't quite sure you didn't mention the details, but I guess you're replacing the water pump (you should since you're this far in it), and the t-stat: get a 180 degree stat.

I just replaced the cam position sensor (my computer said it was bad and the engine was not running because of it). its a little plastic circular thingy that fits in your distributor. you might do this even if your engine is running fine, but it'll set you back $25.00. do all your work on the distro while the plenum is out: cap rotor, and consider new wires.

I hear you when you do business with a vendor or store that treats you right and makes you good on warranties and such, even when their prices are a little more than a bargain place. That's how I operate.

looking forward to your pix.

good luck
 
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:01 AM
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Default RE: Engine Operation (lengthy)

Havingt taken thetrans out 5...that's right, count 'em, 5 times.... of my truck but not an engine (yet)...I'd say that you COULD get away with it, but your best bet would be to take the rear crossmember mounting plate off (leave the crossmember), unbolt the trans from the engine (and TC/flexplate bolts) and then slide the trans back and support it at the front. Biggest reason for this is that the engine mounts require the engine to be lifted straight up, and it'd be tough to lift the engine then uncouple the trans from the engine without getting into trouble. This is what I plan on trying when mine comes apart (which will be a while yet, so lemmie know how it goes)!
 
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:36 PM
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Ah, sorry I won't have any pics. Really would be worthwhile though. I put the intake and all vacuum lines together. I ran new wires and cap/rotor from summit. The wires are a bit long. I tried matching them up with my old wires, and when doing had a hard time beacause they werent exact. So i labeled which wire was on what connector with presumably the correct length, and they're all a bit too long, minus the 8 cylinder wire, was a very good cut, lol. It doesn't make it so the wires don't work, I just can't get them to line up without completely not touching each other. They come with wire looms that I was able to use to seperate the majority of the wires, but I went ahead and used some plastic covering on the spots that do touch. I know it's not best to have them touching, but I'll see what happens once I put everything back together. My MAP sensor vacuum line into the throttle was dry rotted, so NAPA gave me the little section for free since I have given them about 200 bucks over the weeks lol. I like the guy though, orders a part and it's there by 1 or the following morning, depending on the time i'm in the store. My Thermostat housing was nasty, so he had that ready this morning. Put in the 180 thermo and installed the gasket and housing, while just putting a paper towel mushed in the top while the radiator hose is out. Also, kind of interesting, but I installed my Mr Gasket open Air Cleaner, and it was a PAIN. BUT only because I didn't have a vice. Tried the vice grip and pliers method and only made an enlongated bend. Put it under my shoe and hammered it and once side made a nice bend. I had to even cut off some of the thread because it was too long. There was also the main wiring harness that runs underneath the dash area, I had to cut all the tie-wraps because the 14" circle wouldn't fit near the mid section of the harness that runs down toward the floor. Moved it about 1" out of the way and had more than enough room. Just kind of at a loss for how to re-wire it, but again, i'll wait to fire it up to see if it is in "danger". I recommend 3m Brake Cleaner, High Power etc etc. NAPA had it on sale so I bought 3 Cans, and am on my third and equally impressed with that as I am with PB Blaster. Went back this morning to get two more cans, and they were out. Tomorrow I'll be trying to find an air compressor and impact, as it is indeed the best way for the harmonic balancer bolt. Going to NAPA to order and replace the section wire the return heater hose meets the water pump. Florida water has a lot of Calcium, and I can see where it's built up (Wish I had my camera for the thermostat housing, nasty).
 



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