One of 7 errors the dealership said when diagnising my engine (oh yeah, an evap code). the check engine light was on and i noticed a slight vibration. THey refused to work on the truck because of my "radical setup."

Here are the things i have done since:
Changed the spark plugs: Autolite 3923s .04 gap to some new Accel U grooves I had gapped to .036. Made the problem worse.

Changed the coil back to stock coil. Same thing

With the stock coil i disconnected the MSD with my quick connects so the ignition was stock. It started up easier, but still the same problem.

BTW, i only reset the computer after the spark plug change. I didn't do it between the coil change and MSD disconnect. Gonna do that soon.

Can someone tell me about "twisting the distributor"? I tried that when i did the first troubleshooting and the problem got worse. Wich way do i have to twist it? Although when i did twist it i didn't feel it move at all.

No engine lights were on after i changed the wiring harness from the fire. The engine light came on 2 months later. It was running fine, now this happens. With the autolites in the misfire was hardly noticeable except for idle.

THe code about the injectors...anyone know if new connectors would do the trick? Just splice them into the old connections. I am running the Ford blue top 24#ers.

Also, could it be the fuel pump? I am at 145K and haven't had it replaced ever. Could that be the problem? My plugs show rich at idle and lean at WOT. The white part of the electrode is BONE WHITE. There is soot around the rim of the spark plugs.

Thats all i got for now.
--Dan

 

Just remembered that the IAC was the only sensor i didn't replace on the throttle body after the fire. It was a bit "singed" but it worked. I remember it being sooty, and i am gonna try getting a new one. I noticed more of the misfire after it came back from the dealership and they fixed my vac lines going into the dash for my vent controls. THey did that for free, and didn't even charge for the diagnostic. So i am thinking the vac leak is doing something. However, it doesn't explain the misfiring during throttling. The cap/plugs/wires/rotor were replaced after the fire (about 2 months ago).

I am gonna keep doing stuff, but any recommendations would be great. Also the answer to "twisting the distributor" would be great.

All this started to happen after i added a can of "engine restore" to the oil. I noticed i added a quart too much of oil to the engine as well. Can that have something to do with it?
- I read in haynes that uneven compression could cause this.

 

Alright,
I changed the IAC and it didn't help. It seems the more i do the worse this gets.

I am gonna try some champion plugs tomorrow to see if that works. if it doesn't i think i might have a bent valve.

BTW, i noticed my evap solenoid was on updide down. i switched that so the vac line was going to the port next to the MAP sensor, not to the evap. But that didn't help either.

--Dan

 

Right now its down to just the Coil error and the Injector #8 error. I changed my coil to the stock coil and that kept the engine light off for about 4 miles. Then once I floored it for a while, the light came on and back to stumbling, but not as much.

I am thinking the fuel pressure regulator (rockauto calls it the dampener). If it only does it at WOT, then it must be a fuel delivery problem. i am gonna crack the distributor cap tomorrow and check it out.

Changing back to autolites helped out too.

--Dan

 

Did you ever check the catalytic converter?

don't you need a reflash to run bigger injectors? I know you have the Performance PCM, but I don't know if it can map those injectors correctly.

Ford rates their injectors at 24lbs with 39psi at the rail. The ram provides 49psi so you're actually flowing more like 30lbs/hr.

 

Hmmm,

The truck never had this problem for the past 5 years when i bought it with those injectors. I did however change the TB to a fastman after the fire.

I changed the coil back to stock and that helped out for 4 miles, then the engine light came back on. i thought i had it fixed.

I am gonna get a fuel pressure gauge and put it into the fuel rail to test my fuel pressure. The truck has 145K and the fuel pump/dampener have never been replaced. I think its about time it is replaced.

I might have to take the fuel rail off and check to see if anything is clogged in there. It doesn't run that bad except if it goes over 2500 RPM, then its a bit more noticeable. I can't believe the change i got when switching back to autolites. I am gonna have a look at the distributor today even though i changed it2 months ago.

My cat was gutted, according to the guy i bought the truck from, and when i tap it it sounds hollow. But I think i am gonna have it completely taken off if the fuel pressure is good. Then it must be the cat.

Should i go y pipes or magnaflow cat? Emissions aren't a problem for an Oklahoma registered truck.

--Dan

BTW, how did the injectors turn out? I don't think you need a reflash. However, i was just thinking that the computer will read rich and keep reducing the fuel pressure. But i had thesameinjectors on before the fire and they were just fine. The truck ran well after the fire with no chekc engine light for about 700 miles. Then this.

 

Just checked the fuel pressire. it was 40 at prime and 49 at idle. It doesn't rule out the fuel system because there could be a blockage in the fuel line on the other side (where the #8 injector is).

Howeve, i seafoamed the engine and it seemed to help. I reset the computer and let it idle for a minute with no more check engine light. I think this might be a CAT problem because i have been noticing kinda sluggish acceleration even after changing the coil/cap/rotor/plugs/wires and adding the MSD.

If a gutted cat was gutted "wrong" can it still get clogged?

--Dan

 

If the guy before you just poked at it and didn't remove the pieces it's possible that a larger piece turned sideways and is clogging it up. I've also seen pics of a failed cat where the honeycomb inside was a just melted lump of stuff in the center of the cat.

 

Well, thats the last thing i can thing of. Also with the debris from the fire, it is possible that some of the soot and residue went in the intake, through the exhaust and clogged the cat. I also seafoamed it to get any other residue off the valvetrain. That could cause a misfire. Also i noticedmy #8 spark plug had some small burrs on it like a valve was hitting it. They werehardly noticible, but i hope the valve isn't busted.

Is replacing a valve something I can do? I never popped a head before. I assume it will take a while,since its my first time, but i am apprehensive about it because i don't know how to put the rockers back on properly...unless its just bolt and go.

--Dan

 

Ok have truck same problem only its worse at low RPM's. Knocks like it is starving for fuel. Fuel pressure at prime is 45 and 53 running. Is that too high (Haynes says 35 to 45) also the needle is vibrating it will vibrate from 50 to 55. Does that sound like a sending unit?