Take pictures for selfknowledge , plastic baggies lable the bolts .. really its not hard to drop the trans , lable all your connectors like put 1 with 1 , 2 with 2 , this a 2 wheel drive ? or a 4x4 ? have a trans jack or just using a jack ? the trans dip stick tube just pulls out of the trans , that has to come off , easier to take the 4 bolts off the crossmember ,then take the 2 bolts off the trans .. once you drop the trans use a block of wood and jack up the rear motor so its not just hanging there..

 

Usa a trans Jack or rent one. Dont mess with a jack. I was lucky and got to use a lift at school. The Cross member is really fun to get out. Use to large crow bars. Flush your cooler lines. Dont crush your Crankshaft positioning sensor or wiring. Make sure you seat that torque converter all the way in the tranny.

 

Thanks for the reminder of the dipstick tube. Also, what can i use to flush my lines out? That was the downfall of the trans to begin with.

 

The lines ? or check valve was the down fall ? i went with brand new lines and check valve .. sorry cant help you there..

 

the check valve had long been removed. The whole trans was flushed and the buildup of junk stopped up the filter which led to failure. Had enough crud in it to stop it up twice. I need to get them really clean somehow without spending a lot of money. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

New and call it cheap insurance that's exactly what I would do. Nothing like losing a $1500 Tranny to a $100 cooler and lines.

Chuck

 

That's exactly what I'm going to do. I'm also thinking about bypassing the radiator all together and using a fan cooled HD tranny cooler. I don't think I want to take the chance of getting any possible crap that may be lurking in the tubes of the radiator clog my new tranny. I will try flushing it out first, but if I don't feel really sure it's clean, I will bypass it. I will be playing it safe when I do mine.

 

well with recent events i havnt felt much like working on the truck but i started yesterday. So far i have all the electronics out, the motor-mount to bellhousing brackets, the driveshaft, drained the fluid in the pan, took loose the linkage. Now i just need to take out the bellhousing bolts, the starter, and the torque converter/flexplate bolts., and take off the cooling lines. After that i should be able to loosen the crossmember and yank that thing outta there. Or atleast i really hope so. Any pointers on the pain in the *** bellhousing bolts other that a long extension with a swivel???

 

Like someone said earlier, make sure you don't crush the lines going to the crank sensor, believe me it will lead to alot of problems, I did that in my jeep and needless to say 1000 dollars later, I gave up trying to fix it, took it too a shop and its been there almost a month.