Waxing & Buffing
Anybody here know a lot about what it takes to do a proper exterior detail? I have always hired people to do the detailing on my vehicles twice a year (early spring and late fall). I just want to see if somebody can help me go through the steps of doing it, and what products I need, and maybe some good insider tips. I've gotten good at handwashing my vehicle so the truck is always clean, but she needs a wax and a buff, it's been since October. I also plan on buying a Porter orbital buffer so I can really get the scratches out and rub the wax in. But what about claybars? Can anybody explain the sole purpose of a claybar to me, and at what interval do I use it? Some assistance and indepth steps how to properly do an exterior detail on the truck would be extremely helpful, and what products I need too. Sure I could keep paying people, but for how much I like my truck, I think it would make it very satisfying for me to conquer waxing the vehicle. I also would do it more often too if I didn't have to pay somebody $100 everytime. Thanks again!
twice a year ?? i wax my truck twice a month till cold season , then as soon as it gets warm i try to wax it , mothers is all i use for wax , chrome , amor all for the dash , tires im trying different stuff , exhaust tips mothers chrome polish using steel wool super fine 0000 get tar and other nasty stuff off , mother claybar use it , cleans up the paint and strips off the old wax i use that in the spring then the good waxing ,i do all of this by hand , even my springs , shocks , control arms gets waxed...
another tip of keeping the underside clean , pressure wash the underside of the truck and after its dry spray wd40 all over the underside not only will it look good but keeps mud , dirt from sticken easier to keep clean , engine bay well silver is anexpert on that..
another tip of keeping the underside clean , pressure wash the underside of the truck and after its dry spray wd40 all over the underside not only will it look good but keeps mud , dirt from sticken easier to keep clean , engine bay well silver is anexpert on that..
Clay bars remove contaminates from the paint. Not very difficult to use, just follow the instructions. I would stay away from the orbital buffer, they are usually difficult to manage and
can cause some nasty swirl marks if your not careful (I used one on my ex girlfriends car [sm=badbadbad.gif]). The best way is to wash it real good, clay bar it, then wax it with a good wax. I use Rain X wash, a mothers clay bar and Turtle Wax ICE wax (You can use the ICE in direct sunlight, doesn't matter if the paint is cold or not and it doesn't stain the trim).
can cause some nasty swirl marks if your not careful (I used one on my ex girlfriends car [sm=badbadbad.gif]). The best way is to wash it real good, clay bar it, then wax it with a good wax. I use Rain X wash, a mothers clay bar and Turtle Wax ICE wax (You can use the ICE in direct sunlight, doesn't matter if the paint is cold or not and it doesn't stain the trim).
DONT BUY A BUFFER. As a bit of a rookie, you have a good chance of rubbing the paint off.
Here is what you need for the body. For a Buff & Wax. Youi can wax your truck every month or every week. But only buff it out every two or three years.
A Nice Afternoon
Polishing Compound. Small round tub I believe Turtle makes a good one
Liquid Wax Lots of good ones just dont be cheap, I am using Maquires, but that because Advance Auto had a special package deal
Soap Dishing washing soap works.
Wash the truck and let it dry. With a damp rag or pad rub the polishing compound on to the truck. Just the paint, NOT THE PLASTIC.Just a piece at a time, a hood , then a fender and etc. Then use a clean rag to rub it off. Use a circular motion. (Wax on Wax off Remember Karate Kid??). Polishing compound will take the very top layer off,along with the small scratchesand allmost the stains and ugly spots too. If a spot or scratchdoesnt come out with a good bit of elbow grease & a couple of tries. Dont worry about it no more. It is deeper than you want to go.
Wash the truck again and let it dry.
Follow the directions on the wax. Generally damp cloth to put on, dry cloth to rub off. NOT THE PLASTIC.(Wax on , Wax off Again).
Your truck should have a shine you
I have used Armor All for years and it works pretty good. Someone on the forum mentioned stuff called "Back To Black" for the black plastic. There is one thing to remember about Armor All and the rest of the plastic/leather treatments. OVERSPRAY. This stuff leaves and oily film on paint & glass. Easy enough to wipe off but after all you did just wash & wax. I generally spray the armor all on a rag.
Lastly Armor All does a nice job on tires to.
Jeff
Awesome, sounds pretty straight forward. If I do it myself, I'll be able to do it much more often as well. I guess the only question I have left is about the buffing machines. I thought to take scratches out, you need a buffer? I've always been told that handwaxing can make a vehicle shine like new, but a human hand can't possibly take scratches out, is that true?
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I have to disagree with the buffer idea, I have a buffer that I used without having any clue as to how to do it and the paint turned out very well, I spent over 6 hours researching how to properly buff paint and it will be rediculous when I get done.
I did a few things wrong when I did it at first and the paint looked a good bit better than the paint on my moms brand new (at the time) 2006 chrysler town and country aafter a fresh wax.
They make orbital buffers that they say will not burn paint...
My buffer doesnt have any orbital action to it, it just spins but it works like you woudlent belive.
I did a few things wrong when I did it at first and the paint looked a good bit better than the paint on my moms brand new (at the time) 2006 chrysler town and country aafter a fresh wax.
They make orbital buffers that they say will not burn paint...
My buffer doesnt have any orbital action to it, it just spins but it works like you woudlent belive.
Goto the detailing section of the Dodge Forums. Theres more info then you will need.
Theres is more to Dodge Forum than just this section. You will be amazed at what you can find! 90 Percent of my questions were answered just by searching.
Theres is more to Dodge Forum than just this section. You will be amazed at what you can find! 90 Percent of my questions were answered just by searching.
If you get the polishing buffer there is not enough force to burn the paint. You can also take out minor scratches by hand and there a numerous products for removing swirl marks and scratches--by all the major brands. I will agree and do not go cheap on wax or other products for detailing. I like using the Turtle Wax ICE liquid as this can be used in the direct sun or when really cold. You just wipe it on and then wipe it off.
I too and not a big fan of armor all for the interior or tires as once you start using you have to keep on using or they will dry out and crack more easily.
For my tires I use Bleach white. just spray on tire and rim and let sit and then spray off and they look like new and if you have white letter tires then use a SOS pad on them with the bleachwhite and the letters will be white again. Be careful of any plastic parts as it will remove the finish on plastic.
Good luck and happy detailing
I too and not a big fan of armor all for the interior or tires as once you start using you have to keep on using or they will dry out and crack more easily.
For my tires I use Bleach white. just spray on tire and rim and let sit and then spray off and they look like new and if you have white letter tires then use a SOS pad on them with the bleachwhite and the letters will be white again. Be careful of any plastic parts as it will remove the finish on plastic.
Good luck and happy detailing



