I will be replacing my pitman arm tomorrow. Does anyone have a write up for a 1999 RAM 5.9l 4x2?

Please offer up any insight on this replacement? Do you have to remove the tie rods to remove the pitman arm?

I have never done this before, but I'm always looking to learn. Plus, I cant afford to have someone else do it. Just a couple weeks ago, I replaced my shocks (front and back). Will also be doing the vacuum check valve tomorrow as the damper doors randomly go to heat.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Joe

Pittman arms are really easy to change.......with a pittman arm puller. Without it, you'll either never get it off, or destroy your gearbox in the process. And even with the puller, it's really gonna suck without a decent 1/2" impact.

They only call for about .7 hour to replace, so it will probably be in your best interest to just pay a shop the $50-$70 to do it.

If it is so easy to do, that's just another reason for me to tackle it myself. If I purchase the part from Autozone, I can rent the puller for free (just have to give a $13 deposit). I also have an impact wrench to help as well.

I'm still curious if I need to remove any other parts to get the pitman off? I really want to do this myself. I find a real sense of accomplishment when I dot the work myself.

Thanks,
Joe

you can borrow the tools from autozone or advance. they charge you a deposit, then refund it.

At the risk of sounding like a part snob, don't buy that arm from Autozone, CSK or any other cheap source. Get it from Napa and get the good one (they have 2 lines). Otherwise, you'll just be doing it again in a few months.

And I'm not trying to discourage you from doing it; they're just one of those parts that comes off and goes back on really hard. I've broken multiple fixed jaw-type pullers on pittmans and finally got an all steel one from Snap-On that wraps the arm 260*. And I use an IR 2135 Ti to run the nut back down (over 600 ft/lbs). They have to be TIGHT.

Anyway, if memory serves, the only other thing that has to be undone is the center link to which the pittman attaches..

You'll have to get the tie rod out of the end of it without damaging the rubber boot. Other than that it is very easy. Where it connects to the steering box, it can only be put on one way cuz there is like a key way on the splines.

I did mine for the first time in early spring. Other than my cheap puller breaking, it went well with the second puller. I rented it( buy it / return it ) from Autozone. +1 on not using cheap parts. I got my Moog arm from Summit.
I separated the center link first. The joint fork didn't really help, but some hammer blows to the link got it loose.

The first day, I snugged up the puller and hit it with a small sledge hammer on the eye of the arm( gear box side )and it didn't move. While trying to force the puller more, it broke.
The second day, with the new puller, I snugged it good, this time I smacked it on the center link side and the arm popped loose.

It took a little maneuvering, but I replaced the arm without disconnecting any other steering components.
As stated, the gear has splines and keys, but to be on the safe side, put a mark on the gear before removing the old arm.

Good luck.

Thanks Gene!!

I went to Autozone and the picture they had showed no bushing for connection to the center link. Are there additional parts that I need before starting my work? Perhaps it was a generic picture and there really is a bushing. The guy working there said to make sure it wasn't the centerlink that needed replaced. But from searching here, it seems that is would only be the pitman arm.

Thanks for all the help. I will be pushing this project off till I completely understand what I have to do. But it is getting tiring with all the play in my steering.

Joe

You could check it before replacing. My cousin & I checked mine by jacking up one wheel then moving it back and forth( steering direction ). I could see the stud that ties to the center link wiggling as he moved the wheel.
My new arm came with a new boot and greese fitting. Theres no bushing. The stud has a tapered shaft that seats into the center link as it's tightened. That nut is torqued down and cotter pinned.
The difference was awesome. I had about 2 inches of play in the wheel and now it's like new.

The center link is a solid chunk of steel.