http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/do...j20905011.html


cheapest place i could find them.it says they will work for me. what does the rc mean in the discription? just making sure they work before i purchase them.

 

found them cheaper at jegs.

what does the "rc"in the fitment description mean? i hope not regular cab.

 

well after spending probably 6hrs searching and searching everything that came up with a google,these wont work for me. you have to have a 4 bolt balancer for these to work. mine just has the big single bolt in the middle. that sucks. i guess i will have to look at a different brand. which all cost almost twice as much. figures.

 

http://www.lmperformance.com/6810/65.html

heres one that will work. i just wish it came with the alternator pulley too. so i would never have to worry about charging issues at rpms below 1000.

 

an alternative is to use a pulley from the Viper V10

this is s piece of the MPG FAQ:
------
Undersized crank pulleys can increase MPG slightly by driving the power
steering, air conditioning compressor, and water pump at lower rpm where
there will be less friction.
Some who have tried undersized pulley sets report an additional
alternator pulley in a pulley set is generally too slow for the street truck
that may
have to idle a long time without enough rpm to charge the battery.

A pulley that does not slow the alternator down as much as the aftermarket
ones is the factory installed one used on the aluminum block V10 Viper.
This is DC Part Number 5037204AB for a 2003-2007 Ram SRT10 crank
pulley, which usually runs about $60 retail at most Dodge dealerships and
less at discount dealers like Koller.

There have been some warnings posted that the underdrive pulleys for
5.7 Hemi's do not have a torsional damper of correct design. Beware.
Breaking a crankshaft out of warranty is not fun or cheap.

The horsepower that an alternator consumes is
mostly set not by the rpm it turns, but by how much the 'voltage regulator'
inside the Ram pickups PCM computer increases the 'excitation field current'
inside the alternator's rotor. Because of this I see no benefit in slowing an
alternator down - no significant horsepower will be saved or fuel economy
gained. The AC compressor can be simply turned off when you want either
more power or better MPG. NASCAR cooling system guru Howard Stewart
points out that on modern engines like the Chrysler 4.7/5.7 with knock
sensors if you slow down the water pump you might have more horsepower
for the first few seconds at Wide Open Throttle, but then the cylinder head
will begin overheating at its worst spot, some pinging will start, the knock
sensors will trigger, and the PCM computer will start pulling back up to
16 degrees of ignition timing advance - then the horsepower declines
much more than you "saved" with the water pump pulley reduction.
If you must change pulleys it is best to just slow down the power steering
pump alone.

 

if you are still considering a set of underdrive pulleys check out summit racing.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...35+4294817292+

they have a set of march underdrive pulleys (alternator and crank pulley) that are steel powder coated for just under 60 bux. i have this set and they seem to work very well on my truck, the only time the alternator is not charging at peak is below 1200 rpms which does not seem to matter much for me. i have sat at idle for 20 minutes and this has not effected the elctrical capabilities. now if you do choose to go with this set you will need to get a serpintine belt that is a 6 rib instead of a 7 and it will need to be 2"s shorter than your factory belt

 

toader222,how does the crank pulley fasten on? if it is the 4 bolt kind it wont work for me. mine only has one single bolt in the middle. my pulley is like star shaped in the middle instead of being solid with bolt holes. i am pretty sure mine is a one piece design. pulley and balancer pressed on together.
toader it says in the description that it fits to year 2001 mine is a 2002. let me know please. i am wanting a set to install. i guess i have a oddball setup.

hank,what do you have to do for that pulley? have to change out the balancer?

 

it is a 6 bolt set-up that bolts the crank pulley to the balancer. so my thoughts on your set-up would be to see if you could get a balancer off of a 94-01 ram which has the single bolt to hold the balancer to the crank and has the holes for the pulley already there. it cant be that expensive to get one from a junk yard. i am not absolutely sure that this would work but i see no reason why it wouldn't, and it would still be cheaper and in my opinion better than the jet pulleys, just look at what their chips do to our trucks. lol

 

probably just go with the asp one. pulley and balancer all in one.should be a pretty easy thing to change. i found it for 180 somewhere else, if i can just find it again.

whats the easiest way to get the balancer off? its gonna take a different kind of puller to get it off,im pretty sure.

 

you can rent a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller from AZ for like 15 bux.