Just raced
#1
Just raced
Just finished racing my friends 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L. He has a volant intake, catback flowmaster exhaust, and a hypertech programmer. I have 2001 5.9L 1500 with volant intake, longtube headers, and a magnaflow exhaust.
Anyways, we've been shootin the **** about doing this for months now. So we finally did it tonight.
We lined them up on a blank straight away. I did three beeps, and we floored it on the 3rd beep. Right off the bat I spun the tires for a good 2 seconds, while he really only chirped his tires. I took a truck length lead on him up to 60mph, but then he passed me with a vengeance and I stayed a truck length behind him to about 85mph.
We did a couple of the stand still races, and both times, the same results. It was very frustrating though, my transmission was all over the place. It shifted great out of first gear, but once it got into second gear it would not shift. It would go to redline until I manually let off. By the time I'd let off he was in front of me. Then when it would go into third gear finally, I'd go to slam it again and it would go deep into redline. So really, I was only able to race through first gear and deep into 2nd. He most likely would probably still beat me either way, but I could have held my own much better if my transmission was shifting properly. Anyways, back to the drawing tables.
Anyways, we've been shootin the **** about doing this for months now. So we finally did it tonight.
We lined them up on a blank straight away. I did three beeps, and we floored it on the 3rd beep. Right off the bat I spun the tires for a good 2 seconds, while he really only chirped his tires. I took a truck length lead on him up to 60mph, but then he passed me with a vengeance and I stayed a truck length behind him to about 85mph.
We did a couple of the stand still races, and both times, the same results. It was very frustrating though, my transmission was all over the place. It shifted great out of first gear, but once it got into second gear it would not shift. It would go to redline until I manually let off. By the time I'd let off he was in front of me. Then when it would go into third gear finally, I'd go to slam it again and it would go deep into redline. So really, I was only able to race through first gear and deep into 2nd. He most likely would probably still beat me either way, but I could have held my own much better if my transmission was shifting properly. Anyways, back to the drawing tables.
#3
Still got to to work on that tv cable man, and honestly your probably doing more harm then good running your rpm's up that high. I dont believe the stock springs can go much over 5g's. I'd get your shifts figured out before you run your engine up that high.
Last edited by pcfixerpro; 09-16-2008 at 10:28 PM.
#5
#6
I really do want that APS. I love my truck. My truck is special to me, and I want to have a special transmission with it. I love to drive hard, it's just my personality. I want a performance transmission that is designed to take a beating. Do you guys think the dealership would be willing to install the APS if I were to buy it? I just get overwhelmed thinking about how I'd get someone to install and tune it for me. I really do want a transmission that coordinates with my personality and what I've done to the truck. I've dumped a lot of time and money into my truck, and I think it deserves one wild transmission to go along with it's personality.
#7
Not sure. They may be willing to. I'd call and ask. If not I'm sure there is a local shop somewhere that wouldn't mind installing it. Infact I'm sure most wouldn't. Mine didn't require any tuning other than a slight adjustment of the TV cable. That was because it was adjusted to make my broken transmission shift at WOT which it wouldn't do. So it had to be adjusted back after the new transmission. You should be able to do that yourself or I'm sure someone that installs it can do it.
Trending Topics
#8
How much do you think I'll pay for his performance unit? If I do get my money back from New England Transmission, I'm sure money from my core will be included. How much should I expect to pay APS for his performance transmission? I don't need a cooler or a pan. I really would love an APS unit. I drive this truck hard. I'll be miserable with a stock unit. I'll feel so guilty when I race with it. If I had a beefy strong transmission designed for racing, I'll feel proud to line them up.
#9
I paid right under $3600. Like $3584 or something to that nature. Ended up not receiving the torque converter so he overnighted me another one as I wanted it the next day and told him I'd pay to ship it overnight and we split the cost which I think I paid $60 on. He said the guy that built them had the day off but he had called him and said he agreed to come in. I don't think he was any happier than I was. He said UPS had lost it and he had been on the phone with them and they couldn't tell him where it was. I don't know though as I never got a tracking number. After we split the cost and he sent the other one he sent me the tracking number. I guess he got a better deal as UPS told me it would be about $180 to overnight it. So with that it was a little over $3600. Then I paid $400 to have it installed and $150 to have the cooler installed. I think I paid like $150 for the cooler or something but not exactly sure.
If you get your money back it would be a nice time to upgrade to a B&M or fancy cooler while you are doing it instead of just the regular old looking one your transmission shop stuck on there.
As for the pan I got the stock pan and I'm assuming he wont sell you one without a pan as it seems like it would get damaged in shipping but I don't know that for sure. You wouldn't have to pay any extra for the bigger pan if you had one though.
I'd call and get him to email you some quotes. You can get another model cheaper or a couple models that cost a lot more. I got one that would handle more than I ever planned for it to and that had what I wanted in it. There were both cheaper and more expensive options. I think the cheaper option was around $3100 or something.
In all honesty I think you will pay quite a bit more than what you have now costs however I think you will be getting a far superior unit.
If you get your money back it would be a nice time to upgrade to a B&M or fancy cooler while you are doing it instead of just the regular old looking one your transmission shop stuck on there.
As for the pan I got the stock pan and I'm assuming he wont sell you one without a pan as it seems like it would get damaged in shipping but I don't know that for sure. You wouldn't have to pay any extra for the bigger pan if you had one though.
I'd call and get him to email you some quotes. You can get another model cheaper or a couple models that cost a lot more. I got one that would handle more than I ever planned for it to and that had what I wanted in it. There were both cheaper and more expensive options. I think the cheaper option was around $3100 or something.
In all honesty I think you will pay quite a bit more than what you have now costs however I think you will be getting a far superior unit.
Last edited by hometheaterman; 09-17-2008 at 01:17 AM.