Gauges not working
I posted about this almost a year ago, but never came to any resolution, and parked the truck as I have a vehicle with better MPG I drive all the time.
My gauges do not work. The warning lights work as far as I can tell, though the BRAKE and ABS lights are always on, along with the low fuel light (I'm sure from the fuel gauge being on E all the time). When I do the cluster self-test, it comes up with codes 920, 921, recently 950, and 999. I know the first two say to check with a DBRIII (right?) tester, but the 950 code says to check the CCD Bus connector at the CAB (might have a word or two missing).
First question is, where would that connector be at? Second, this cab has a lot of rust inside from having a busted-out windshield for a while before I bought it. Is it pretty likely that a ground is too rusty?
The other thing I've noticed is that the A/C compressor never kicks on, and the fan is always blowing, even when it is turned off.
Thanks guys.
My gauges do not work. The warning lights work as far as I can tell, though the BRAKE and ABS lights are always on, along with the low fuel light (I'm sure from the fuel gauge being on E all the time). When I do the cluster self-test, it comes up with codes 920, 921, recently 950, and 999. I know the first two say to check with a DBRIII (right?) tester, but the 950 code says to check the CCD Bus connector at the CAB (might have a word or two missing).
First question is, where would that connector be at? Second, this cab has a lot of rust inside from having a busted-out windshield for a while before I bought it. Is it pretty likely that a ground is too rusty?
The other thing I've noticed is that the A/C compressor never kicks on, and the fan is always blowing, even when it is turned off.
Thanks guys.
The DBR (or DRB I can never remember which way its said) is the Chrysler computer they plug into the truck and allows them to check out all kinds of stuff. From Transmission temp to programming a keyless door fob, we have one at the shop and its awesome. I would call the local deler and see how much it is for them to scan your truck with the DRB. We charge 55 bucks, but the amount of time you an save from chasing down all the codes may be worth it. most times the tech will be able to tell you whats wrong just by seeing which codes show up and there knowledge of what normally goes wrong with the truck, rather then a list form autozone about what each code could possibly be.
But with all the other stuff going on seems like you have an electrical nightmare on your hands.
Hope this helps you out.
But with all the other stuff going on seems like you have an electrical nightmare on your hands.
Hope this helps you out.
Last edited by Kindschi; Sep 26, 2008 at 04:29 PM.
my cluster quit working andI kept getting the no Bu5 or "no bus" code. Took it to a dealer and they tested it and tried a few things pulled the cluster reinstalled it and it started working again. I would take it in to a dealer and have it checked. Let them tell you whats wrong and fix it yourself. Its probably either the cluster is bad which I wouldn't doubt beings it got wet in the past or the pcm is shot. If you take it to a dealer though and its the pcm or cluster don't get the parts off them they are insanely high priced







