Header 101
#1
Header 101
Well I just got a set of the ceramic coated pasesetter shorty headers in the mail this afternoon. Already have a set of stage 8 locking header bolts sitting next to them. Caught a deal I couldn't turn down (what always gets me in trouble). Anyway I've looked through many of the header threads around here and am trying to be the best prepared I can for the install towards the end of next month. I also plan on buying the remflex gaskets as suggested by many others on the site, including bluebeast2. As far as preparing for the installation im setting a week dedicated for soaking them with anything I can get my hands on basically. PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. Is there anyone who installed headers around 100,000 miles that did not break bolts? Just curious as to how you prepared for your installation, and if anyone has some pointers from those who have been in my shoes before.
Thanks in advance,
Greg
Thanks in advance,
Greg
#2
#3
Yea im not worried about the down tube bolts because if they snap, they are no big deal. Im concerned with the bolts that go into the cylinder head. Thanks for the response though.
#4
#5
Forgot to mention this in my first post, but what is the suggested cycle of tightening the locking header bolts. Im figuring I would put the bolts in torqued to spec as per instructions from pasesetter, and keep the locks off. Get her up to operating temp from idleing, then let her cool down. Check torque specs for the 2nd time. Then take her for a short drive a while and come back to let her cool down. Double check the torque once again and then throw the locks on?
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Im glad there are two success stories at least. Motorbrreath, didn't you do a motor swap a year before you put your headers on? Just curious. A buddy of mine put a set on last year and broke one or two. My roommate put some on his monte carlo and broke a few. I'll take her easy I guess. Thanks for the tip Motorbrreath
#9
PB blaster the night before should be more than enough. Just be sure to get the bolts thoroughly soaked and make sure you spray behind the manifold to get the bolts where they enter the heads.
I had to remove the studs with vise grips so I made sure I soaked the stud on the head when i swapped it out.
As far as torquing goes: I couldn't torque them as I couldn't get a torque wrench onto the bolts. I just went as tight as I could get with the open ended wrench then drove it to get them nice and hot, let it cool and retightened. Then I checked it at the end of the first week, they were all tight. Just checked them again this weekend (4 weeks later), still tight. That's basically what Gibson recommended to do.
I had to remove the studs with vise grips so I made sure I soaked the stud on the head when i swapped it out.
As far as torquing goes: I couldn't torque them as I couldn't get a torque wrench onto the bolts. I just went as tight as I could get with the open ended wrench then drove it to get them nice and hot, let it cool and retightened. Then I checked it at the end of the first week, they were all tight. Just checked them again this weekend (4 weeks later), still tight. That's basically what Gibson recommended to do.