If your control arm is cutting your tire, you should do something, and do it quick.
That is pretty drastic ,,, And it is almost always advisable to get an alignment after major front end work, which balljoints would qualify as.

 

Thanks for the pictures!!

I will be attempting this tomorrow morning. The one question I have is...how do you properly torque the bearing nut? Seems many reference show having the hub. I'm just leery of using 185 ft-lbs. I don't want to destroy my new bearing.

Thanks a bunch.
Joe

 

Why isn't this in the DIY section? Or is it?

 

185 ftlbs is for the sealed hub bearings on 2wd
dodgeram07 (the DIY poster) has the old plain timken tapered roller bearings which I believe are torqued alot lower.
maybe someone with those can confirm.

Joeuc23 what do you have on yours?
what year?

 

I have a 1999 4x2 with the "old plain timken tapered roller bearings"

Thanks,
Joe

 

ya dont torq they to 185 or you will have problems

just tightin thill the play it out of the rotor, but the rotor still turns feely

 

Alright...Thanks all.

Hopefully the ball joint (upper and lower) and bearing replacement goes well tomorrow.

Thanks again,
Joe

 

Great write up! My ball joints are wore out on both sides (Upper/Lower). Followed your instructions. Removed driver side lower joint with no problems. My truck ball joints look exectly like yours. However the top hat plate on the upper ball joint does not indicate a tack weld. Do I cut this plate in half for removal?

Any help would greatly be appreciated,

coongobbler

 

Don't cut any plates,you have to grind off the rivets.

 

So what are we supposed to torque the new ball joints to there aren't pressed in?