how on earth?????
I cant believe someone actually has to tell you how to do this!
Take off the air filter
Kneel on the front bumper, philipshead screwdriver in hand
reach on either side of the intake and find the TWO screws that old the dist cap on
unscrew
remove cap
pull cap over top of intake so you can see what wires you are removing and where to place them on the new cap.
Dodge PLEASE!
(no need to memorise where the rotor goes, it only goes on one way.)
are you super cerial? its like 12 bolts? DO IT!
Last edited by IndyRamMan; Nov 27, 2008 at 07:30 AM.
I have very limited experience working on the Ram motor.
I printed out the the cylinder numbers and respective connection to the cap.
Removed the air cleaner, covered the TB.
I put a cushion on the front support of the truck (for my knees).
Removed the wires from the cap.
Unscrewed the cap screws (phillips) and removed.
The whole process took me less than a 1/2 hour because it is easier than it looks.
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
I printed out the the cylinder numbers and respective connection to the cap.
Removed the air cleaner, covered the TB.
I put a cushion on the front support of the truck (for my knees).
Removed the wires from the cap.
Unscrewed the cap screws (phillips) and removed.
The whole process took me less than a 1/2 hour because it is easier than it looks.
Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
hey, I'm 7 ft tall and even i found it to be a pain in the *** job to remove the distributor cap. It's all the way back there. If you want to kick the guy who placed the distributor there, good luck, all small blocks are like that since the 60's... Luckily for us we don't have to do this every week
Greetz,
Bigster
Greetz,
Bigster
The firing order is on the front of the intake manifold in raised aluminum lettering.
The cap has a number "1" printed on it. Start there and go clockwise around the distributor cap replacing the wires, following the firing order on the intake manifold.
follow this TSB for wire routing.
I suggest strongly before removing the wires from the old cap that you remove them one at a time and with masking tape, make a "flag" around each wire by the distributor boot and write the number of the corresponding cylinder on the tape with a sharpie.
Also, get a cap that has brass terminals, and has "keepers" for the little phillips head screws. Napa sells such a cap. You don't want to be fumbling for screw holes with your butt in the air over the engine bay and drop a screw into a crevice that you can't retrieve it from. Use a coating of dielectric grease on all the cap terminals and spark plug ends.
The cap has a number "1" printed on it. Start there and go clockwise around the distributor cap replacing the wires, following the firing order on the intake manifold.
follow this TSB for wire routing.
I suggest strongly before removing the wires from the old cap that you remove them one at a time and with masking tape, make a "flag" around each wire by the distributor boot and write the number of the corresponding cylinder on the tape with a sharpie.
Also, get a cap that has brass terminals, and has "keepers" for the little phillips head screws. Napa sells such a cap. You don't want to be fumbling for screw holes with your butt in the air over the engine bay and drop a screw into a crevice that you can't retrieve it from. Use a coating of dielectric grease on all the cap terminals and spark plug ends.
hey, I'm 7 ft tall and even i found it to be a pain in the *** job to remove the distributor cap. It's all the way back there. If you want to kick the guy who placed the distributor there, good luck, all small blocks are like that since the 60's... Luckily for us we don't have to do this every week
Greetz,
Bigster
Greetz,
Bigster
You're Dirk Nowitzki, I knew it!
Just kidding, he's German.
hey, I'm 7 ft tall and even i found it to be a pain in the *** job to remove the distributor cap. It's all the way back there. If you want to kick the guy who placed the distributor there, good luck, all small blocks are like that since the 60's... Luckily for us we don't have to do this every week
Greetz,
Bigster
Greetz,
Bigster
1st time doin it, its a bitch. but once you get it down, the swap takes 10 mins. i lay over the engine, and pull the 2 screws off. pop the rotor off, put a hair bit of grease in its hole, and put it back on. then align the cap. screw it down, and put the wires back on.
When I replaced my cam position sensor I removed the intake tubing, put a rag in the TB, placed a two-step step stool next to the passenger side fender, put a blanket over the fender, and stood on the stool and leaned over the fender. I put a drop light back there and used a bendable screw driver/socket driver to get to the screws on the cap. I used a mirror to see what I was doing. It wasn't as bad a job as I thought it would be but I'm not looking forward to doing it again.
I am a tad over 6' 3" tall, and I reached the cap from the sides without removing anything else in the engine (besides the spark plug wires, of course).
Seriously, remove wires (using some sort of color code or other label system to make sure you route the wires correctly when you put a new cap on), reach in from driver's side, remove screw, reach in from passenger's side, remove screw, remove cap, pull off rotor (memorize which direction was facing), install new rotor facing same position (make sure its pushed down all the way), install new cap, insert screws (reaching in from the appropriate sides), tighten screws, install wires, done.
Seriously, remove wires (using some sort of color code or other label system to make sure you route the wires correctly when you put a new cap on), reach in from driver's side, remove screw, reach in from passenger's side, remove screw, remove cap, pull off rotor (memorize which direction was facing), install new rotor facing same position (make sure its pushed down all the way), install new cap, insert screws (reaching in from the appropriate sides), tighten screws, install wires, done.




