it wasn't an ebay website it was a reputable co.

 

thanks I always wondered that.

 

When you asked the 30+ year Chrysler professional expert mechanic how to fix the valve float - What did he say?

 

He said to make sure he had to remove valve cover and check a couple of things. If it was then to remove head chk to make sure it wasn't cracked and then depending on what he found either replace valve, machine head, etc. The same info I got from alot of you guys. I don't care if the truck has to be towed to the moon I just want the da#m thing fixed. Any suggestions?

 

now on a different note how did you fab the dual intake? also how much do you want for your t.b.?

 

if you have valve float it's definitely a broken spring. Read this:

Valve float occurs when the valvesprings are incapable of holding the valvetrain against the camshaft lobe after peak lift. This happens when either the weight of the combined valvetrain components or the rpm speed of the engine creates so much inertia that the spring is no longer able to control the valve. The most common response to valve float is to increase the strength of the spring so that it can better control valve motion. But stronger springs generally weigh more and cause their own problems. Achieving the optimum strength-to-weight ratio is a delicate balancing act for every engine builder.

 

thanks Aim how have you been? You've helped me now for over a year and I really appreciate it. Now do I replace this spring or do I go ahead and replace all of them? 2nd question: I don't have to remove the heads to do this correct just the valave cover? Thanks again man I appreciate you and all of the other members for their imput.

 

I've been good, Truck's running well again.

I would pull the valve cover and visually inspect the springs for obvious breaks. If you get lucky and find your culprit, it'll be relatively easy. Make sure you get stock replacement strength springs. Unless you have an aftermarket cam of course.

To replace a spring, you have to make sure the valves are closed and stay closed when you remove the spring retainer and spring or you'll drop a valve down into the cylinder. They make an air chuck that you can screw into the spark plug hole, push air into the cylinder and it'll hold the valves closed for you, though you need an air compressor. You can then remove the retainer and spring and replace. If you can't readily find the problem, it might be broken right at the bottom and you might have to pull each spring and visually check the seating area. Only other way to do it is to pull the head.

If they all check out, the only other thing I could think of would be a very worn cam (highly unlikely), a bent push rod (have you been racing?, roll them on a glass surface to see if they wobble like a bent pool cue), or a dead lifter, (very obvious as the push rod would have play in it.)

I'd pull the valve covers and grab each push rod and try to wiggle it up and down. If it's got play in it, it might very well be the lifter. pull the rocker arm, pull the push rods and test them by rolling on glass, then blame the lifters. You'll have to pull the intake to get those out.

 

Thank you sir. Haven't been racing although I did accelerate heavy to merge onto highway and the truck started bucking like a rev limiter was kicking in. I checked the fuel pressure ( although the pump is new ) and it checked out @ 49 psi. It hasn't done that again but instead of my usual cyl 5 misfire code I then got cyl 6 and multiple/random with it as well. To go the cheap route first I replaced the spk plugs, cap, rotor, and wires and then kept adding fuel injector cleaner to the tank in case of bad gas ( recommendation from a member ). Well this cleared the other codes but the # 5 stayed. I have been dealing with this problem for over a year and a half and it's random. Sometime the truck will run for months w/o a 5 misfire then it'll hit. I was told that the routing of the #5 wire is not really a big issue because Dodge has 1 of the coldest ignition systems around and this was by a reputable Chrysler/Dodge mechanic. Anyway this am when I filled up I added more injector cleaner and drove a few miles then stopped the truck. When I got ready to leave and started it the CEL was off and it has not come back on. Also when the truck is cold and is warming up it starts to stumble while the RPM's try to lower the the RPM's will go up a little to level it out along with the throttle plates opening up to let in more air or at least that is what it sounds like. After this goes on for about a few minutes it will idle down and be okay; usually it's at this time that the CEL will come on with the #5 being a misfire. I know this is alot of info but I wanted to catch you up on this. I have a few posts with this issue in December 2008 and this month.

 

Also can these springs be bought at O'Reilly's or Autozone? What's the spring rate?