What Kills a 360?

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Jan 20, 2009 | 03:45 AM
  #11  
Quote: I agree that you should just run it. technically there is room for a 20 psi difference (according to Haynes) so although it could be a cracked head etc, there may in fact be nothing wrong with your engine (if you feel optimistic). If you develop a mis or other symptoms it wouldnt hurt to dig a little deeper. Mine went 260k without overhaul so i'd say yours is just a pup!lol
DAMN 260k is amazing!! I hate people that say American engines don't last long....
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Jan 20, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #12  
Quote: Drivers Side bank
cyl 1 - 150
cyl 3 - 150
cyl 5 - 150
cyl 7 - 130

Passenger Side Bank
Cyl 2 - 155
Cyl 4 - 145
Cyl 6 - 155
Cyl 8 - 150


SHould i just leave it the way it is or should i start playing with cyclinder 7?
Actually, I think those numbers look pretty good for an engine going on 200k. If you're not getting a miss in #7, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. Like others have said, just keep running it and don't look back. If you have a vacuum gauge and time, you might be able to pin-point the problem to an exhaust valve, etc., but it would be a useless exercise IMO.
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Jan 20, 2009 | 05:34 PM
  #13  
my right foot!
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Jan 20, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #14  
I do have a vacuum guage....just for the heck of it how would i pin point the problem?
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Jan 21, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #15  
Quote: I do have a vacuum guage....just for the heck of it how would i pin point the problem?
The vacuum gauge will fluctuate and behave in a certain way if there is a burnt valve present. I would have to pull out mine and look at the documentation again because I can't remember how it's supposed to behave when you open the throttle and let it come back down to idle. It's not any exact science, but it can give you some clues as to what's going on.
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