When you replaced the head gaskets the last time, did you also machine the head flat? If you didn't, that's most likely why the gasket(s) failed, and they will fail again if you don't get the heads machined. The factory head bolts can be reused once, but not more than that. If you get new bolts, make sure they are of good quality and preferably US made. I don't trust the foriegn metalurgy out there today (Canada being an exception ). Seen too much stuff.

 

I hate to say it man, but if thats an issue youve picked the wrong vehicle to own lol

Might wanna reserve your next few years of weekends to keep this baby up and running well.

 

No, I didn't get the heads machined the last I did it. Guess I will this time.

These are the head bolts I was going to get from RockAuto.

FEL-PRO Part # ES710381 {From 05/1995}


Well since it has 140k + on the engine I am aware there's more work to be done. 25k of those miles are mine since I got the truck 9 months ago.

 

If you dont mind the extra cost , Ive got all ARP head studs on my engine , and on every engine I build, Very good hardware.

Make sure the head is milled flat.Also get all the gasket material off the block , and that you torque the cylander heads down in the correct pattern and it should be fine.

Never use any kind of sealent on a headgasket , as they already have sealer on the gasket themselves , as well as it can cause potential leaks.

Going fast and skipping a step like not following torque patterns can ruin your gasket , head surface and deck surface, so go slow and take your time. Since youve been in this area before Im sure your ok.

To get the ARP stud kit , I got it from www.summitracing.com

Since your in this area and going to have your heads milled anyway, maybe have your valves grinded down and cleaned. I got a 3 way grind job on my valves and they seat alot better now. Better seating valves , better combustion chamber enviorment when on power stroke , as well as better compression , and less loss. Just food for thought.

 

Any one got suggestions on a good place I can get my head machined in Ohio close to lorain or cleveland area?

That's not a bad idea to get my valves done too.

I so wanna just throw in a set of harland 1.7 rr's since I'm already going this far.

 

Since I'm thinking a little. Wouldn't I have a milk shake looking effect in my radiator resevoir if my heads were leaking? It's almost like the anti-freeze is passing somewhere else and dumping right into the oil pan because my resevoir is lower everyday or empty like today.

Going to do an oil change tonight or tomorrow because I don't need to spin a rod bearing with having all that anti-freeze watering down my oil.

 

hold on, hold on, hold on....
if you are losing coolant into your oil - then your oil will be milky white, like coffee with cream.

if your oil is normal - then there is no coolant in there, and you are losing coolant somewhere else. possibly water pump, freeze plug, hose, cracked radiator etc.

also, if you suspect any kind of cylinder or head problem - then do a compression test.

 

That's what I thought.

Then my question is how am I losing coolant and gaining oil?

I'll do one tomorrow and update everyone

 

you are not gaining oil. either the truck level is varying, or you're getting different levels of drain down from the top end and/or oil filter.

or maybe one of your buddies is screwing around with you...

 

I did a compression test and compared them to one I did 6-8 months back and they are almost the same cause I can't remember how many times I spun the engine then compared to today, so here are today's results:

1) 130
2) 140
3) 130
4) 140
5) 140
6) 140
7) 140
8) 120 - already know about this one

So this tells me that my cylinder head gaskets are fine, so now it could be the intake or the timing chain cover.

Anyways my brother is going to bring me a radiator pressure test unit so I can test the cooling system pressure and maybe figure this all out.