Solid axle! Open diff?
Although this is a true statement, the 3rd gen Power Waggons do come with selectable lockers front and rear. But, its not a limited slip front though... its either locked or open.
a selectable locker is the ultimate goodie, but will cost you a lot of $$$$. there's 4 of those $ signs there for a reason.
LSD will be a bundle too, but not as much.
depending on what you're wanting to do, and if an objecive is DIY and lowest amount of $$$, you could do this -
put in a lock-right locker in the front end.
and a posi-lok axle coupler to replace the vacuum cad.
don't do this unless you understand what it will and won't do, and what the effects are. in general, you don't want to be locked up in the front while on the road in slick conditions. you'll end up in the ditch because at some moment of crisis, like in a turn, your front end will decide it would rather be locked than unlocked, and your tires will slide, and its hello ditch.
so here's what it would do.
in 2wd with posilok unconnected. rear wheels will pull, and drivers side front tire will turn the diff and the passenger side inner stub shaft. the front drive shaft will spin and the t-case freewheels. no personal experience, but its been said this creates a little bit of steering wheel pull to the left. i don't know if it does or doesn't.
in 2wd w/posilok connected. don't do this. t-case freewheels, lockright tries to stay locked up. no front drive benefit. potential exists for front tires to slide in slick conditions - hello ditch.
in 4wd w/ posilok unconnected. you now have 3 wheel drive (subject to open rear slip). front drivers side will pull. passenger side inner stub shaft will freewheel. no potential to slide out of the road due to locker. this is safe for street use or mudding.
in 4wd w/posilok connected. true 4 wheel drive (subject to open rear slip). front axle is locked up and will only unlock due to turning friction. caution - potential for front tire slide in front, but you have control of the posilok cable to lock/unlock via the cable. this is unsafe for street but ideal for mudding.
congrats on having the nicest 2nd gen truck made - the 01 offroad.
LSD will be a bundle too, but not as much.
depending on what you're wanting to do, and if an objecive is DIY and lowest amount of $$$, you could do this -
put in a lock-right locker in the front end.
and a posi-lok axle coupler to replace the vacuum cad.
don't do this unless you understand what it will and won't do, and what the effects are. in general, you don't want to be locked up in the front while on the road in slick conditions. you'll end up in the ditch because at some moment of crisis, like in a turn, your front end will decide it would rather be locked than unlocked, and your tires will slide, and its hello ditch.
so here's what it would do.
in 2wd with posilok unconnected. rear wheels will pull, and drivers side front tire will turn the diff and the passenger side inner stub shaft. the front drive shaft will spin and the t-case freewheels. no personal experience, but its been said this creates a little bit of steering wheel pull to the left. i don't know if it does or doesn't.
in 2wd w/posilok connected. don't do this. t-case freewheels, lockright tries to stay locked up. no front drive benefit. potential exists for front tires to slide in slick conditions - hello ditch.
in 4wd w/ posilok unconnected. you now have 3 wheel drive (subject to open rear slip). front drivers side will pull. passenger side inner stub shaft will freewheel. no potential to slide out of the road due to locker. this is safe for street use or mudding.
in 4wd w/posilok connected. true 4 wheel drive (subject to open rear slip). front axle is locked up and will only unlock due to turning friction. caution - potential for front tire slide in front, but you have control of the posilok cable to lock/unlock via the cable. this is unsafe for street but ideal for mudding.
congrats on having the nicest 2nd gen truck made - the 01 offroad.





