help
#21
Internet problem solving can be pretty dicey at times. But there are a couple of things you can do that won't cost much if anything. Lets try these.
If your battery end is too hot to touch when the truck is starting or being run, you either have a corrosion issue or a dead short to ground. Take the cable off and clean it and the terminal with a battery brush. I don't care if was done lately, try it again. Is the top of the battery clean and dry? Dirty batteries actually transfer current across the terminals which is hard on them. Clean the battery.
Next inspect the positive cable. It has at least one wire that runs off to the main power box where all the main relays and fuses are. We'll get to that in a minute. Make sure the connections are tight, and for testing lets remove any aftermaket items like burgler alarms and stereos. This eliminates ghost drains. Factory alarms and stereos are exempt from this. Make sure the positive cable goes to the main starter terminal and none of it is touching any engine components. If it is, check for melted insulation. Then you will have to crawl under the truck and check the cable on the starter. It has to be tight on the terminal. Put everything back together and check the negative cable the same way.
The ASD or Automatic Shut Down relay is in the power box next to the battery. Its position should be marked on the printing on the underside of the cover. If the truck has been running a while before you checked it, it might be hot. It was suggested you swap it with a foglight relay which is the same type and start the truck to see if this cures your idle issue.
If it does not, your IAC may be bad. There is a way to test it but it is VERY complicated and requires a Volt Ohm meter. I would say if if you swap relays and the motor still doesn't idle its the IAC. I have had those fail but never the ASD relay.
I sure hope that helps.
I type too slow...others have posted with correct info. Good luck.
If your battery end is too hot to touch when the truck is starting or being run, you either have a corrosion issue or a dead short to ground. Take the cable off and clean it and the terminal with a battery brush. I don't care if was done lately, try it again. Is the top of the battery clean and dry? Dirty batteries actually transfer current across the terminals which is hard on them. Clean the battery.
Next inspect the positive cable. It has at least one wire that runs off to the main power box where all the main relays and fuses are. We'll get to that in a minute. Make sure the connections are tight, and for testing lets remove any aftermaket items like burgler alarms and stereos. This eliminates ghost drains. Factory alarms and stereos are exempt from this. Make sure the positive cable goes to the main starter terminal and none of it is touching any engine components. If it is, check for melted insulation. Then you will have to crawl under the truck and check the cable on the starter. It has to be tight on the terminal. Put everything back together and check the negative cable the same way.
The ASD or Automatic Shut Down relay is in the power box next to the battery. Its position should be marked on the printing on the underside of the cover. If the truck has been running a while before you checked it, it might be hot. It was suggested you swap it with a foglight relay which is the same type and start the truck to see if this cures your idle issue.
If it does not, your IAC may be bad. There is a way to test it but it is VERY complicated and requires a Volt Ohm meter. I would say if if you swap relays and the motor still doesn't idle its the IAC. I have had those fail but never the ASD relay.
I sure hope that helps.
I type too slow...others have posted with correct info. Good luck.
Last edited by dsertdog56; 06-10-2009 at 11:10 PM.
#23
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lee County, North Carolina
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the quick easy way to check the iac is to take it off the throttle body with the wire plugged in and have someone turn the truck on while you hold it in your hand. if its working correctly the pintle will retract and if its not it'll either do nothing or make a horrible buzzing noise.
Last edited by Sheriff420; 06-10-2009 at 11:31 PM.
#24
This thread has pointed out something that is lacking in here. We need a glossary of many of the terms and acronyms we use so that newbies and the less technical among us can easily find out what they mean without having to feel confused. A sticky with some of these definitions would be very helpful. I moderate a couple of other forums and they all have a glossary Sticky like this. Who would I contact about this? Silver Dodge?
#25
the quick easy way to check the iac is to take it off the throttle body with the wire plugged in and have someone turn the truck on while you hold it in your hand. if its working correctly the pintle will retract and if its not it'll either do nothing or make a horrible buzzing noise.
Thats good info! Much better than the messy mess in the manual! So the IAC doesn't have to be grounded to the chassis to do this>?
#26
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lee County, North Carolina
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probably 94rt10ohio, he's a big dog on here. and i agree with that one, i've seen a few from yall that took me a while to figure out.
iac doesn't have to be grounded, the ground is in the pigtail. the haynes manual says to do it this way and there was a post a long time ago about this method. i've done it with good and bad ones and it works. i think dvaughn said that he tried it and the pintle went the wrong way and it pushed itself out. i also showed my dad what a bad one does the other day and plugged my old one into his truck and when he hit the key all it did was make a short buzz then nothing.
iac doesn't have to be grounded, the ground is in the pigtail. the haynes manual says to do it this way and there was a post a long time ago about this method. i've done it with good and bad ones and it works. i think dvaughn said that he tried it and the pintle went the wrong way and it pushed itself out. i also showed my dad what a bad one does the other day and plugged my old one into his truck and when he hit the key all it did was make a short buzz then nothing.
Last edited by Sheriff420; 06-10-2009 at 11:39 PM.
#27
Hey guys. The symptoms she is having of the truck running fine when it is cold and as soon as it heats up it won't start and she has to wait for it to cool down are text book symptoms of a bad pickup coil in the distributor. My 87 Daytona Turbo Z did that several times until I got smart and bought a Mopar replacement pickup from the dealer. Never had the problem since. Also seen this on several other makes and models over time. Miami, I am sure in your extensive time in the auto industry you have seen this.
#28
#29
Sure have, but considering who is asking the question I really didn't want to get into a lengthy dissertation of the myriad possibilities that could be at play here and their somewhat technical troubleshooting nature. Gotta consider your audience.