Never heard of a MAP sensor affecting horse power, how does this work? How do you test it?

 

Gearing is probably your only option at this point if low end is what you're after. It is a lot cheaper/easier to modify an engine for high rpm performance than low.

 

I think he meant the MAF sensor, which detects the amount of air flowing into the intake. A MAP sensor detects manifold vacuum to determine engine load. If it malfunctions it can cause the ECM to think the truck is coasting when it is actually under load, so it can affect performance negatively if not working properly. I don't think any of these trucks have a MAF sensor, though.

 

Hey Hahns, you're one of the few guys on the forum that runs an Aero 3030. Got any sound clips of that thing? It was one of the few I was considering a while ago.

 

Here ya go. It destroys the 40 series and every other muffler IMO. Pretty aggressive when you get on it and when it and when cruising it's near silent, a couple weeks ago I did a near 2000 mile road trip and the exhaust didn't bother me one bit.
The second video doesn't sound very good as the camera I was using wasn't great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2rvrPgAk50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvsgo2HEG00

Sorry if I'm pissing on your thread

 

Read this: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...p?topic=9197.0

 

"Here's the combo, previous bolt-on mods first. 50mm F&B throttle body, K&N round filter with Xtreme-style lid, Mopar plug wires/Accel coil/NGK plugs. Magnaflow 3" high flow cat/Dynomax 3" ultra-flow muffler. We just installed a set of used, unported 1.92 Mopar Performance R/T heads with a fresh valve job/seals, etc, used Crower 1.6 rockers, March steel underdrive crank pulley, Edelbrock shorty headers (still using factory y-pipe with pre-cats. Factory kegger intake, not modified, with Hughes billet plenum plate. Dyno tuned with an SCT controller."

I don't think I'd call all of that cheap OR easy.

 

He meant MAP sensor, and I'm in the same boat with CSX. My sig says I have the 14x3 on but I've since removed it, as it kills my low end for some reason. But there is no chance in hell I'm spinning my not so big 265's unless there sand on the road. I also believe my exhaust is opened up too much, and the best route would be to go back to single out 2 1/2 or reduce the duals to 2 1/4. I could care less about high rpm performance. Oh and btw, I have a new MAP sensor coming also, so we'll see.

 

Since our trucks don't have a MAF sensor (as you stated), nope, I meant MAP.

I'm not saying it will solve the issue, but it may help a tad. MAP helps the computer control the injectors IIRC, and if they aren't pulsing right, your engine won't be running quite as well as it could and you won't have quite the take-off you would if you had a Grade A condition MAP.

If you have access to a tuner that can clear codes or a scanner that can clear codes, unplug the MAP sensor and see what your truck does when you try to start it and what happens when you try to drive it.

 

Don't worry about it, that's a very sexy sounding truck...


What should I be looking for when I unplug it?

zman17, please let me know what happens when you install the new sensor. Thanks

I guess I could start messing with the exhaust flow, but that's kind of a pain in the butt for something that may not even work. If anyone tries this please let me know how it turns out.