99 dodge ram A/C Vent problem plz help
#11
#12
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lee County, North Carolina
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you say you installed the vac canister, when you put a check valve or the canister on the right side of the T, all it does is bypass the original check valve on the side of the manifold and rule out a leak in the line going to the cruise. that should fix it but it doesn't work for everyone, like you and me.
i'm replacing an axle seal on my truck and its been down for a week or so because i'm lazy and haven't gotten around to finishing it. while i was under my truck i noticed that i have a vacuum line cluster (4 rubber lines in a harness) that was just sitting on top of the heat shield above the cat (thanks ****ty transmission tech). anyway, i found out that it plugs into the top of the transfer case so i plugged it back in and i am hoping that it is the reason that the wild vent fix didn't work for me. like i said though, i'm lazy and still need to put my front axle back together before i can find out if that was where my vacuum leak was at.
so check out the lines that go to the top of your transfer case.
also, on the driver side floor, to the right of the gas pedal there is a vac cluster with a few lines and there are two vac canister things under there, one with a red and one with a yellow vac line on them. i think the canister things open and close the blend doors. you can see them without removing any of the dash.
i'm replacing an axle seal on my truck and its been down for a week or so because i'm lazy and haven't gotten around to finishing it. while i was under my truck i noticed that i have a vacuum line cluster (4 rubber lines in a harness) that was just sitting on top of the heat shield above the cat (thanks ****ty transmission tech). anyway, i found out that it plugs into the top of the transfer case so i plugged it back in and i am hoping that it is the reason that the wild vent fix didn't work for me. like i said though, i'm lazy and still need to put my front axle back together before i can find out if that was where my vacuum leak was at.
so check out the lines that go to the top of your transfer case.
also, on the driver side floor, to the right of the gas pedal there is a vac cluster with a few lines and there are two vac canister things under there, one with a red and one with a yellow vac line on them. i think the canister things open and close the blend doors. you can see them without removing any of the dash.
#13
Dude, give it some time. First of all not everyone has logged in a read your post, so not everyone has tried to help you yet. Secondly, slow down, you can't expect your problem to be solved in one day. Remember Rome wasn't built in a day. Third get a Haynes manual it may give you some information that you have overlooked, and fourth, and most importantly, always remember, we are ALL a bunch of smart asses around here, so if you intend to stick around, get ready for ribbing, it's part of life on this forum. I would say something to to be a smart ***, but I'll give you a free pass this time
#14
Doesn't the yellow line go to the control switch on the dashboard? Sounds like the switch could be bad or the test you are doing is faulty , because when you pump the vac pump you are sucking air the opposite direction of it's normal flow. The check valves, switch's and other components are designed to flow one way.Try hooking the vac gauge to that yellow line,start the motor and see what vac you have without pumping the vac pump. BTW, if you tested the rest of the vac lines like you tested the yellow one, depending on which end of the hose you were testing, one end you tested right and the other end you were sucking in the wrong direction. The way you did it , would be fine if you were just testing the hose itself for leakage and had the other end of the hose disconnected and blocked off.
i do understand what you are trying to say, and/but I think I did it right. Then when I got done testing that, I hooked my vacuum pump where the yellow connector went on the door vacuum stswitch, I could get it to hold vacuum and the actuator would pull the door down to regular ac vents and hold it there. That is why I do not think I have a problem at the actuator.
I really think it is going to be at the switch or the lines from the switch to the area behind the glove box. I really want to know how to test the switch to eliminate that dang thing! :-)
#15
you say you installed the vac canister, when you put a check valve or the canister on the right side of the T, all it does is bypass the original check valve on the side of the manifold and rule out a leak in the line going to the cruise. that should fix it but it doesn't work for everyone, like you and me.
i'm replacing an axle seal on my truck and its been down for a week or so because i'm lazy and haven't gotten around to finishing it. while i was under my truck i noticed that i have a vacuum line cluster (4 rubber lines in a harness) that was just sitting on top of the heat shield above the cat (thanks ****ty transmission tech). anyway, i found out that it plugs into the top of the transfer case so i plugged it back in and i am hoping that it is the reason that the wild vent fix didn't work for me. like i said though, i'm lazy and still need to put my front axle back together before i can find out if that was where my vacuum leak was at.
so check out the lines that go to the top of your transfer case.
also, on the driver side floor, to the right of the gas pedal there is a vac cluster with a few lines and there are two vac canister things under there, one with a red and one with a yellow vac line on them. i think the canister things open and close the blend doors. you can see them without removing any of the dash.
i'm replacing an axle seal on my truck and its been down for a week or so because i'm lazy and haven't gotten around to finishing it. while i was under my truck i noticed that i have a vacuum line cluster (4 rubber lines in a harness) that was just sitting on top of the heat shield above the cat (thanks ****ty transmission tech). anyway, i found out that it plugs into the top of the transfer case so i plugged it back in and i am hoping that it is the reason that the wild vent fix didn't work for me. like i said though, i'm lazy and still need to put my front axle back together before i can find out if that was where my vacuum leak was at.
so check out the lines that go to the top of your transfer case.
also, on the driver side floor, to the right of the gas pedal there is a vac cluster with a few lines and there are two vac canister things under there, one with a red and one with a yellow vac line on them. i think the canister things open and close the blend doors. you can see them without removing any of the dash.
#16
If you can't figure out what is going on behind the firewall or inside the dash box, why don't you spend a little time at this link (below) and read through the TSBs for your year truck. You may get some useful information. The 98+ Rams are notorious for vacuum problems, and there is a TSB for it.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/index.html
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/index.html
#17
#19
98 ram with different vent problem!
My 98 5.2L ram has a very weird problem with the vents...it's not the wild vent problem that everyone has...mine is this:
My ac blows extremely strong out the driver's side vent. The middle two vents hard have air blowing out of them..the vents on the passenger side are alittle more air flow than the middle but nothing compared to the drivers side vent! It is totally crazy...can anyone tell me what is going on..????
My ac blows extremely strong out the driver's side vent. The middle two vents hard have air blowing out of them..the vents on the passenger side are alittle more air flow than the middle but nothing compared to the drivers side vent! It is totally crazy...can anyone tell me what is going on..????
#20