No sound in any of the front speakers!
If the single amp went out, how would only my rear speakers operate.. (or of course the front speakers themselves could be blown.)
Thanks again for the help. Yes I probably should get an upgraded deck. I just love that the radio green matches the rest of the dash lights. (though that's something else to search around for as I'm sure there's matching options... or perhaps a modern ram head unit.. etc)
Last edited by bobboraze; Sep 15, 2009 at 01:13 PM.
i have 6, but i also had the premium sound system, when i had the factory head unit, i could rattle the windows, not with my Kenwood though
need to figure it out, i want to be able to scare people with it again
need to figure it out, i want to be able to scare people with it again
You can torch just one individual channel and the other three will continue to keep working. In your case, the front 2 channels. By now I'm thinking that you are having a circuit board issue common with these decks.
Correct, sorta... There is one amp with 4 channels. one to each speaker. So, I'm guessing now that you are saying you only have 4 speakers, and that means that you have the standard set?
You can torch just one individual channel and the other three will continue to keep working. In your case, the front 2 channels. By now I'm thinking that you are having a circuit board issue common with these decks.
You can torch just one individual channel and the other three will continue to keep working. In your case, the front 2 channels. By now I'm thinking that you are having a circuit board issue common with these decks.
Thanks for all the help everyone!!
It used to cut out while driving, but now When I turn on the Stereo, It just makes a very loud Continuous Popping noise.
Can I has thread jack?
@Laramie, or other audio expert:
I recently got off my *** and totally eliminated the amps and installed my aftermarket JBL 950 speaker in the passenger door (I did the driver's one awhile back because the stocker blew). I cut out the amps and used the factory wiring. Pretty sure I got the signal wires and the polarity correct. Everything works right and sounds ok, however I do get distortion. I get distortion in the bass at high volumes (~40-50(max)) with surround sound on-the EQ settings (Rock, Hip Hop, Jazz) just make it worse. With surround off and the EQ flat (user), there's no distortion, but the sound is ****- all flat with no punch and no treble.
My speakers are JBL Touring? 950 2-way 6x9s rated 100wRMS @ 2 Ohms. My headunit is a JVC KD-HDW10 @ 25wRMS. Is the distortion to due being underpowered, or EQ/surround settings that aren't really compatible with the speakers? In extreme cases, the bass even distorts the treble, which is really high because I'm still running the stock tweeters+the ones in my aftermarket 6x9s.
@Laramie, or other audio expert:
I recently got off my *** and totally eliminated the amps and installed my aftermarket JBL 950 speaker in the passenger door (I did the driver's one awhile back because the stocker blew). I cut out the amps and used the factory wiring. Pretty sure I got the signal wires and the polarity correct. Everything works right and sounds ok, however I do get distortion. I get distortion in the bass at high volumes (~40-50(max)) with surround sound on-the EQ settings (Rock, Hip Hop, Jazz) just make it worse. With surround off and the EQ flat (user), there's no distortion, but the sound is ****- all flat with no punch and no treble.
My speakers are JBL Touring? 950 2-way 6x9s rated 100wRMS @ 2 Ohms. My headunit is a JVC KD-HDW10 @ 25wRMS. Is the distortion to due being underpowered, or EQ/surround settings that aren't really compatible with the speakers? In extreme cases, the bass even distorts the treble, which is really high because I'm still running the stock tweeters+the ones in my aftermarket 6x9s.
Oren, few things I want you to do first.
1. Crank the speakers up to the point that you can visually see the speakers moving. If the speakers look like they are being pushed out, then that means you have the polarity correct. If they look like they are getting sucked in, then that means that you have the polarity backwards. ( I would just tell you the loom colors, but Chrysler liked to switch things around quite a bit, and frankly, I don't remember them.)
2. Pull the speakers and check for visual damage, stains, holes ETC Also make sure that the cones still move fairly easily.
I'm going to say that it's just the speakers not getting enough power, or they are getting *over powered* by the deck moving sound frequencies that are out of the speaker's range.
1. Crank the speakers up to the point that you can visually see the speakers moving. If the speakers look like they are being pushed out, then that means you have the polarity correct. If they look like they are getting sucked in, then that means that you have the polarity backwards. ( I would just tell you the loom colors, but Chrysler liked to switch things around quite a bit, and frankly, I don't remember them.)
2. Pull the speakers and check for visual damage, stains, holes ETC Also make sure that the cones still move fairly easily.
I'm going to say that it's just the speakers not getting enough power, or they are getting *over powered* by the deck moving sound frequencies that are out of the speaker's range.
I just stuck the speakers in the stock holes. No mods or anything.
They're currently spliced together with electrical tape on them because I'm going to run new wire to them at some point.
I'll pull the door off tomorrow (ugh, again), unless I can see it with a flashlight, I dunno. Anyway, I'll see what way they're moving.
I've used these speakers before, and even with this head unit before, in my dad's old car- 2003 Chrysler Sebring convertible, also with the Infinity sound. However, these cars have a 180w amp under the passenger seat for all speakers. They sounded about the same, maybe worse in that car. I didn't bypass the amp at all. Just spliced right into factory wiring at both ends.
When I was working on them the other day, the cones were fine, the rubber surround is fine.
They're currently spliced together with electrical tape on them because I'm going to run new wire to them at some point.
I'll pull the door off tomorrow (ugh, again), unless I can see it with a flashlight, I dunno. Anyway, I'll see what way they're moving.
I've used these speakers before, and even with this head unit before, in my dad's old car- 2003 Chrysler Sebring convertible, also with the Infinity sound. However, these cars have a 180w amp under the passenger seat for all speakers. They sounded about the same, maybe worse in that car. I didn't bypass the amp at all. Just spliced right into factory wiring at both ends.
When I was working on them the other day, the cones were fine, the rubber surround is fine.
That's the issue then. Classic case. By pass the amps, and all should be better. Wait... That was on the Chrysler? I'm confused... It's late/early.......
I would say you are under powering them.
I would say you are under powering them.



