Alright, another question about the EVAP
charcoal canister cracked, charcoal came out, no parts stores seem to have it is there anyway i can drive my truck without it on there and not have a problem or a kaboom under my *ss? i need to go to school tonight and thats my only ride since its prob guna rain or id ride the streetbike. should i put hose from the one rubber hose to the other and connect them or what??
try to get it covered then just get one from a junkyard. If you run it like that it could set other things off, and it will be like a chain reaction, and it may misfire due to running rich/lean etc. but you can get it covered andnot have it leak you may be all right, but still id go get one asap
Quick questions:
What are the failure modes and symptoms of a spent Evap Canister?
Is there another name for it? Reason being, the the auto stores asked me that question. I would like to replace mine as it's never been replaced along with the purge solenoid valve.
Thanks,
Chris
What are the failure modes and symptoms of a spent Evap Canister?
Is there another name for it? Reason being, the the auto stores asked me that question. I would like to replace mine as it's never been replaced along with the purge solenoid valve.
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by cmckenna; Sep 30, 2009 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Post was not clear in regards to questions being asked
my truck barely has any problems, i just ask of stuff that im concerned about and stuff. i dont consider this a problem a rock punctured it in the woods no biggie just making sure its safe to run with out the charcoal in it. my trucks been really good to me in the past year and a half ive had it only thing happened to it was a clogged injector and a misfire from it cleaned it out runs great again
The clogged injector routine. Been there and done that. Expect more of that as your vehicle ages. When you start to go through that again, ditch those OEM junk fuel rails along with the steel delivery lines. Rip all that out and replace it with -6AN lines and Al fuel rails and an inline filter. Never worry about another clogged injector again.
Those OEM rails are nothing but problematic once they start to rust inside. A cheap way out is to acid etch them after cleaning them inside with aggregate. Then, etch and rinse them out. Let them dry and then coat the insides with special epoxy kit designed for sealing fuel delivery components. Takes care of that issue as well but, the steel supply lines still need to be junked as once those start to rust, forget fixing those. FYI
Ok, back on track here: somewhere, someone mentioned running rich or lean when the canister goes bad? Is this true? Does this component affect the fuel / air mix? I will check the schematics in a bit to see where this would tie into the A/F part of the schematic.
Those OEM rails are nothing but problematic once they start to rust inside. A cheap way out is to acid etch them after cleaning them inside with aggregate. Then, etch and rinse them out. Let them dry and then coat the insides with special epoxy kit designed for sealing fuel delivery components. Takes care of that issue as well but, the steel supply lines still need to be junked as once those start to rust, forget fixing those. FYI
Ok, back on track here: somewhere, someone mentioned running rich or lean when the canister goes bad? Is this true? Does this component affect the fuel / air mix? I will check the schematics in a bit to see where this would tie into the A/F part of the schematic.
cool thanks for the info on that with the injectors, uhm and as far as the canister goes im not positive. all i new about it was it took fuel vapors filtered them through the charcoal and returned them to the motor to be burnt off. thats pretty much all i heard that did
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I just read today on another older post on here about it causing a rich / lean fuel mixture. That particular thread caught my attention and now I am going to look into this schematic and find out how this system functions and just what it does other than filter off vapors from going into the atmosphere.
First I had read that it works at time of shutdown to prevent vapors from entering the atmosphere. Then, after that, I read that it constantly sends and returns vapors to be re-burned similar in way that the PCV system works.
After that, I came across it affecting the A/F mixture ratio. I did check mine tonight in fact and, the purge solenoid is definately working all the time. It's cycling open / closed as the engine runs.
Now is the time to find out just what this system does.
First I had read that it works at time of shutdown to prevent vapors from entering the atmosphere. Then, after that, I read that it constantly sends and returns vapors to be re-burned similar in way that the PCV system works.
After that, I came across it affecting the A/F mixture ratio. I did check mine tonight in fact and, the purge solenoid is definately working all the time. It's cycling open / closed as the engine runs.
Now is the time to find out just what this system does.
how did you check the solenoid cuz i need to check mine, and idk how it would affect the air fuel there arent any sensors or anything atleast that i know of or could see. the only thing i know of is the solenoid eh who knows lol check out the schematics and let me know
yeah, how do you check to see if the purge solenoid is working? i know you can blow in it and you shouldnt be able to...... ive heard the canister is a dealer only item...i dont remember exactly what tells the solenoid to open or close, but yeah it could affect a/f



