I've been having issues with the throttle on my 318. They are as follows along with the parts replaced still issues.
On occasion with cold starts in summer weather, it will either start up as it should normally or I have to hold the pedal down a little to get it going. Then run it at a fast idle for about a minute, it may then quit or keep running, has its own mind.
Once this proceedure is done and I get on the road it may idle normal or quit when stopped, or on occasion will run at a fast idle around the 1100 rpm range. I have replaced the Cold Temp Sender on the Water Pump, Idle speed Motor, C.O.2 Sensor, and cleaned the Throttle Body.
I haven't yet tried the TPS as of yet but am leaning to that next. The Engine was totally done 20,000 miles ago all new everything. Its got me stumped and with exception of changing the TPS, next in line I don't know where to go.
Anyone have these issues with their Goat? If so please let me know what it is you did to correct this.
By the way there are no vacume leaks, at the intake or else where.
Thanks in advance for any and all remedies, or positive answers.

 

i'd replace tps. it plays a role in telling the pcm your not mashing the gas, and its supposed to perform idle function.

 

The tps, map sensor, or a vacuum leak can cause this problem (I realize you said you don't have a vacuum leak, but just stick with me here). Like dhvaughan said, the tps will tell the computer when the idler air controller needs to take over because your foot is not on the gas. The map sensor tells the comptuer how much of a pressure differential there is in the intake manifold, and the higher pressure differential it reads, the more fuel it will inject, so if its reading off, then at idle, where it has its lowest reading anyway, it might not be injecting enough gas. A bad map sensor would have similar symptoms to a vacuum leak without the leak, whereas an actual vacuum leak would cause even a good map sensor to read off.

 

Guys thanks for the input. I'm not into this engine sensor stuff, and don't really understand it. My mechanic has been doing the best he can do with out a check engine light comming on, he has a Snap-On portable diagnostic unit and has done the best he can so far. I asked him about the TPS, and he doesen't seem to think it is that, but maybe he's wrong on his findings.
As for the MAP, he hooked one up for me to see if it worked without charging me. Again this is an interment issue that comes and goes.
That's why I came here to the Forum as you guys are always fooling with these items.
I'm old school and prefer the Carb and simple stuff, its a lot easier to figure out.
Thanks for the input again and I will try the TPS and see what that does, looks simple enough to change.