So i did the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and its still stuttering and cylinders 6 and 8 are still misfiring. im going to do the other things you suggested. but if you think of anything else just tell me.
thanks for all the help guys

 

I had a similar problem when I first got mine. I tried a new fuel injector in the bad cylinder and replaced the cap and rotor as well as the wires then cleared the computer. But I only had the misfire, and not the stalling and rough running motor.

 

Like I said earlier, the ignition wires are not your problem. Start with checking those things I had mentioned.

 

random question but have you watched to see what your coolant levels are doing?

 

my coolant has stayed the same.

 

hi kane912,

i have an '03 1500 with 4.7l and 28k miles. i also recently purchased it and it started throwing a cylinder 3 misfire code. i changed all the plugs, swapped coils from left bank to right and vice versa ( 4.7l has ignition coils on each plug ) did a leak down and compression test on the cylinders, all ok. no more codes but now i have the exact problem your describing. at 1400rpm from 40-55 mph it is lugging/shuttering. quite annoying.

what, if anything did you find out? i would really appreciate the help even though i know i have a 3rd gen ram with a different engine then yours... but the problem i'm having is exactly the same as yours.

 

I would bring it in to a dealer and have them run an ODB III tool on it.

You may have a sync issue or it may be your TPS. If it's faulty in a certain spot, it will send erroneous data to the ECU thus affecting your A/F ratio. If there's a spot in the travel that is dead or, the most used range has a worn spot, that's the area where it is not sending the right voltage to the ECU for a certain rpm range.

That's the most common symptom of what you described. If your getting multiple misfires across all cylinders, could be a coil related issue or a fuel pump issue such as the above poster mentioned or out an out of sync issue. This can be traced to either a problem in the program at the ECU or at the CPS and / or CKPS components.

This is where the OBD III tool comes in handy. It will be able to read the offset of the cam and crank. If it's a large offset, it throws the timing out of whack. The only way to fix that is to go and reprogram that value using DART or OBD III.

But, in your case it's only affecting 1400 rpm so, it's probably the TPS due a worn spot in that area.

 

thanks cmcmckenna,

i will check out the tps... also found it might be a bad egr valve, will look into that this week.

on a side note... i'm kinda leery of dealerships... when it first started throwing the code i went in to talk to 2 different service departments. one, a chrysler was pretty willing to have a dialog about the code and possibilities. the other, a dodge dealership, was pretty money hungry and very tightlipped. i had already changed the plugs and compression tested the cylinder but they would only say i needed a leak-down test for $150 and the problem was either a intake, exhaust valve or head gasket. well, i did the leakdown myself.... nothing wrong and saved the money. it turned out to be either a wiring snafu or the coils not snug.

 

In most cases, it's always common to have a wiring issue on the older Dodge engines due to the layout of the engine itself. Same can be had with lots of Ford engines. Chevy was one that got around that by a better design at the engine. The plugs are way apart thus not a chance of crossfire at the plug.

The dealers have a great tool that is custom designed and is loaded with tons of great software to aid in diagnosing the problem. Those rigs are very nice and are the best way to go for diagnosing electrical problems. Mechanical testing can be done by anyone that knows how to do it. There's no special equipment needed.

Leak down tests can be had for as little as 75 bucks out here in So Cal. So, even though the dealer has all the better tools, it's cheaper to have the mechanical testing done elsewhere.

I agree that they overcharge for certain things. I got hosed once on just changing the lube in the front and rear axles. They were supposed to provide a quote before pulling the covers. Well, when I didn't like the quote (they were overcharging by a huge amount just for the raw fluid) and told them I would pick it up, they told me they already had it apart and that it can't be driven. It's a scam that they pulled on me. I reported that one and filed a complaint with the state on those *****'s. They were closed down due to excessive complaints filed with the state and lost their license.

 

wow thanks for all the great advice cmcmckenna,

i'm actually also in la. dependable dodge in canoga park i'm not so keen on. where have you found quality dealership service? thx, joe