Yeah I have tried every freaking thing I can think of to figure this out...going to be stopping by vato zone on my way home to get a push button started..until i can figure this out..I am so tired of popping the hood to start the f'ing thing.

 

Maybe the new Ign. switch or neutral safety switch is defective or the plug to either one is not on all the way or a contact is burned/corroded or bent.

 

when I changed the ignition I did not put a new key lock in it..not sure if there are any contacts there that could be bad..I don't think so but at this point it has to be something. The weird part is I am getting power every where there is supposed to be just no action when the key is turned.

 

I've got the same problem with a 95 vw cabrio. It worked for a few months after replacing the ignition switch, now I have to jump it like you. A wire has to be chaffed some where in the column and it's wrecking the switch. If I have time to figure it out, I'll let you know.

 

I appreciate your help..when i get to the bottom of this I will be sure to post what I found as well. Key on push button start after this weekend..I suppose

 

Ok, I reread this thread again to see where you are at. On the engine starter relay, you do not have a problem with pins 30 and 87. These are the main relay pins that energize the solenoid/starter. It is probably what you use to start the engine.

The problem you are having is with the circuit for pins 85 and 86. Do this, pull the relay out. Get a volt meter and attach the red positive lead to the socket for pin 86 and black to a good ground. Use the neg. battery terminal if necessary. (This should be the start switch power pin) Now, have someone turn the key to start and see if you get any voltage. Record the reading. You should get battery voltage.

Now, do the same with the socket for pin 85. (This should be the ground pin) There should not be any voltage here.

I read in your post that you had voltage at pin 85. Is this correct? If yes you may have the relay connections reversed according to the manual.

Also, using a continuity tester, test for continuity on pin 85. one lead to the socket of pin 85 and the other to a good ground. Do this only if you DID NOT get a voltage reading in the above test. Do this test on which ever pin did not show voltage in the about test. Continuity testing is done on a dead circuit.

Once you do this post the results to see what we have. Make sure you identify the test done, voltage read, or continuity yes no etc.


Here is how the circuit works: positive voltage flows from the battery to the fuse and splits, one wire going to the engine starter relay pin 30 another wire going to the ignition switch.

The power at pin 30 is waiting for the relay to be energized. When it is, it connects to pin 87 and power flows to the starter solenoid and cranks the engine.

The power at the ignition switch is waiting for someone to turn the key to on then start. When the key is turned to start, power flows to pin 86 thru the engine starter relay coil to pin 85, thru the NSS to ground. When this circuit is complete, the relay is energized and pin 30 and 87 make contact to power the solenoid/starter.

When the engine starts, you release the key from start, power goes to zero in the circuit, the relay springs open breaking the contact of pin 30 and 87 and the starter disengages.

Let us see if we can figure this out.

 

Get a volt meter and attach the red positive lead to the socket for pin 86 and black to a good ground. Use the neg. battery terminal if necessary. (This should be the start switch power pin) Now, have someone turn the key to start and see if you get any voltage. Record the reading. You should get battery voltage.

Used voltage tester, ground to neg on batt. no reading at 86 with the key on or in start position or any position. I get Voltage at 85 with key turned to start.


I read in your post that you had voltage at pin 85. Is this correct? If yes you may have the relay connections reversed according to the manual.

This sounds like it may be the case?


Currently I have the cover of the starter relay itself and just squeeze (the spring portion of the relay) the relay to start the truck. Before I took the cover off the relay I was using a jumper on 30 and 87 to start the truck with the key in the on position.

What is confusing me is no power at 86 ever..

 

Ok, do the continuity test on pin 86, the dead circuit, you should have continuity to ground. If yes continuity, move your transmission shifter to any selection except park or neutral. You should loose continuity.

You have power, althought maybe reversed. I will check the book again. You need to have continuity to ground to make the relay circuit close pins 30 and 87.

I will check again late tonight.

 

Well, my plans for today were sunk by a very heavy fog formation this morning. Cancelled the plans for today and went shopping.

Back to the problem. The manual shows pin 86 as the power pin and pin 85 as the ground pin.

Since your relay cover is off do this test. Remove relay and attach a lead between positive battery termimal and pin 86 on the relay. Attach a lead between the negative terminal and pin 85. The relay should energize and pins 30 and 87 should contact. Now reverse the wiring and see if the relay will still work or not.

I don't know if these relays are polarity sensitive. This test will let you know. If they are not polarity sensitive, the start circuit should work even if it is wired wrong.

If the relay is polarity sensitive, then getting power at pin 85 with the key to start is a problem.

 

i dont know, this sounds a bit iffy to me, and personally i think its the solenoid thats gone out, as it had to of ran fine and strated before, and the likeliness of anyone pulling the pins out, and putting the in wrong, is slim to none, though im also leaning towards a misadjusted NSS, if youre 100% sure its adjusted properly, try to eliminate the solenoid as a possible cause.