well someone mentioned maybe the misfire wasnt due to clogged injectors and i was just stating i redid my whole ignition system so i know its not any of that i read my post AFTER i posted it and realized i shouldve typed it different lol

 

Like I said, the misfire is due to the fact that your plenum, pre- cat o2 and the cat are bad! Simple as that, fix it first. After,Take the plugs out and clean them and use some seafoam to clean the valves.

 

well does anyone have fuel rails anyway? i still need them regardless so could anyone let me know if they have any they could sell me for cheap please...?

 

Random misfires can be from blown plenum gasket as well as fuel injector electrical connectors &/or wiring to them failing
Curious, if the injectors were plugged, how did you clean them?

 

idk how the guy did it i had my friends dad do it it ran great for like a month and a half then started gettin crappy again i still need fuel rails for something else anyway though

 

i know where you can find very cheap fuel rails and injectors if you want,
I had badly rusted fuel rails on my 1999 5.2 sport heck they were rusted out and leaking on the end caps.I live in ohio so finding none rusted rails on trucks is impossible so i looked at vans and found that because the engine sits so far back the rails and injectors were all in alsost new shape with no rust at all on them. i looked at maybe 3 or 4 vans and all of them had no rust on the fuel rails so i took the rails and injectors off because the injectors looked new also,and mine were covered in rust.I GOT EVERYTHING FOR $50.00
Dont forget to paint everything though or they will rust again.

 

Misfires can be caused by rusty fuel rails and, where he found that out was when we were working on this very same issue a while back. Now, I had misfires as a result of poor fuel rails that were rusted on the inside. This is not far fetched nor an issue of surface rust but full on rust that flakes off on the inner walls on the fuel rails. It flakes off, ends up in the injector filter thus impeding flow. Those are the large particulates that end up there however, the finer particulates end up flowing through the basket filter and end up clogging the valve inside the injector thus creating either a leaky or clogged injector.

If it's restricted or clogged, then fuel is unable to flow through and what ends up happening is a lean mix that isn't burned thus causing a misfire condition. So, as you can see, this is quite possible. I was the one who informed of this as I went through that same exact problem as he's experiencing now.

This is why you see those nice blue rails of mine along with all new fuel lines. That was the reason I went to that system.

Now, to answer your question: I am going to again provide you with two options that are cheap:

Option A: You can buy an epoxy kit from me and fix your rails for 60 bucks plus S&H. I will sell you the kit along with instructions. But, you need to hurry and make a decision because in two weeks, I will be driving 3500 miles to the east coast in my truck and will not be able to ship that out to you.

Option B: You can buy a used set of rails that may or may not be in good shape and then coat those.

Your best bet is to go with Option A for now. Reason is: even if you buy a set of rails from someone, chances are, the coating has worn off and the base metal is bleeding through already. Your talking parts from 97 era so, that's a long time to be sitting around rusting. Those will need to be treated most likely. I have yet to see any cold rolled steel lines from that era that are not being used that are in good shape.

Now, I have a set and, they are no holes in them and are solid. However, due to rust, they would need to be cleaned and acid etched and then epoxy coated which, at that point, your looking at 200.00 bucks for a set from me and, I am not sure if I even have time to take care of that at this point. Months ago, I had time to make you a custom set but, now, weeks before I have to leave, I don't have too much time left to do much in the shop. You let me know if you want to go that route or not and I will see what I can do to make it happen.

 

On another side note regarding ignition wires:

I must ask you a question regarding which MSD ignition wires your running. Are you running MSD Superconductor 50s by chance? If so, those wires should be removed from your vehicle as they will never work with your Dodge EFI vehicle.

I will tell you that I went through a two month bout of misfires after installing those MSD wires- random mind you. I couldn't figure out what the hell was going on for two months solid. Then it had gotten much worse. It began to run like total junk where it wouldn't idle and it was popping through the pipe.

I kept thinking it was the fuel delivery system as well as checking every single component down to the coil driver circuit at the ECU etc etc. The ECU was damaged for sure and, I know what killed it too- those MSD low-ohm wires. There was a hole in the MSD boot at the coil that was arcing over to coil ground. I found that at night with some H20.

Those low-ohm wires can be a real problem because, the lower the ohms, the less EMI protection there is. When there's lots of EMI, it radiates into the wiring harness and ignition components as well as the injectors and sensors nearby. Couple that with a hot coil and a large discharge capacitor setup and you've got some serious Corona affect going on.

I removed those MSD wires and took them apart to inspect each one carefully and here's what I found. One wires on one side of the engine showed open - meaning, no connection. Upon opening that one up and stripping off the insulation, it was noted that the spiro-wound core was broken inside, in the middle of the boot. Most likely from being removed too many times. However, I do use a tool to remove them and do not grab / pull on the wires when removing the boot.

But, that wasn't the only thing I found. I found three other wires showed breaks in continuity when flexed. This means an intermittent connection. Upon removing the boot, it was noted that the ends were deformed and the crimp failed to keep the wire in the crimp at the boot end on one and, as for the others, I didn't see any issues at the crimp so, it must have been more broken coil wires inside.

The way they crimp those ends is just plain bad in my opinion. It's a pinch crimp not a fold under crimp. The material that the ends are made out of appears to be of a soft metal and has perforations to allow flex. It deforms, it stretches and it also bends outward due to high placement of the banding clamp. The banding clamp helps keep the connector round and prevents oval-ing out and provides a means to maintain a tight fit. But, since it is place > than .125", it's not very effective.

I found two other cables on the other bank to have higher resistance and, when flexed, noted drop outs in continuity. Probably more of the same failure modes.

Now, to further this fiasco, I went out and purchased another set of top quality, low-ohm wires. These were 40 ohm wires. I even crimped those myself with an expensive crimp tool that I own and put the boots on. After all, I work with electronics all day long and, it's a piece of cake to make wires if need be.

So, I placed those on and they worked for about a week before having a misfire. Another few trips and more misfires to running rough. I knew I had a problem and it needed to be rooted out and fast. I knew about the TSB from Dodge regarding the routing so, I did that- no go. It had gotten much worse, just like with the MSD wires.

I took them all off and measured each one on the bench. All spec'd out perfectly. There were no opens or high resistance etc. They measured to spec. I knew it had to be the wires at this time and sought out some expert help.

I found an engineer who informed me of why they weren't working. The ohm spec on those is much too low for EFI vehicles he told me and, they were not shielding EMI to OEM spec and that's why I was having issues. I replaced them with higher ohm wire. Root cause for misfires: Incorrect type of Ignition wires

Do yourself a huge favor and rip those MSD wires out and get a set of Magnecors on and then test it out. You will have to custom order them from Magnecor. Or, you could simply try and use OEM ohm wires and route them to the TSB from Dodge. Either way, higher ohm wires work better than low ohm wires on EFI applications. The magnecors spec out around 6K for 3 feet which averages out to 2K per foot vs. 40-50 ohms / foot as all the other companies use. Those low ohm wires are fine for carb / non computer controlled vehicles but, not so much for EFI applications.