Help Please window stuck
I just fixed this same problem yesterday, only mine was the driver's switch would only run the passenger window down -- not up. The passenger switch worked both ways.
Fixed it by cleaning the contacts in the driver's door switch. Your problem might be the passenger switch. Carefully pry the switch open with a small screwdriver and spray the crap out of it with contact cleaner (Radio Shack.) You can also run some very fine emory paper through the contacts, but don't over do it. You just want to remove any corrosion -- not the plating on the contacts.
Note that disconnecting the plug to the window motor and measuring the voltage on the plug with a meter DID NOT WORK. The meter showed a nice +/- 12V from both switches. The voltage only dropped out when connected under a load -- since the switch was dirty, it had a high resistance. The meter draws practically no current, so the voltage gets through the high switch resistance and falsely indicates that all is well. That sent me on a wild goose chase ripping the motor out, thinking the switches were OK and the motor was binding.
I think if the window goes up/down from either side, your motor and fuses are OK -- you've got a switch problem.
Also, the driver's side switch feeds the passenger switch. You might need to work on the driver's switch, even though the passenger switch looks bad (the driver's switch might not passing the connection through to the passenger side.)
If you've got the cash, you can also just change the switches out (eBay) ...I'm cheap...
Fixed it by cleaning the contacts in the driver's door switch. Your problem might be the passenger switch. Carefully pry the switch open with a small screwdriver and spray the crap out of it with contact cleaner (Radio Shack.) You can also run some very fine emory paper through the contacts, but don't over do it. You just want to remove any corrosion -- not the plating on the contacts.
Note that disconnecting the plug to the window motor and measuring the voltage on the plug with a meter DID NOT WORK. The meter showed a nice +/- 12V from both switches. The voltage only dropped out when connected under a load -- since the switch was dirty, it had a high resistance. The meter draws practically no current, so the voltage gets through the high switch resistance and falsely indicates that all is well. That sent me on a wild goose chase ripping the motor out, thinking the switches were OK and the motor was binding.
Also, the driver's side switch feeds the passenger switch. You might need to work on the driver's switch, even though the passenger switch looks bad (the driver's switch might not passing the connection through to the passenger side.)
If you've got the cash, you can also just change the switches out (eBay) ...I'm cheap...
For the quick fix instead of taking the window out of the regulator just take the motor off of the regulator. The regulator is spring loaded so it makes pushing the window into the closed position easy. Then just reattach the "frozen" motor and the window will stay closed.
If you end up taking the entire regulator & motor assembly out of the door, be very careful if you remove the motor! The whole thing is under spring tension and will go off like a bear trap when you remove the motor screws. Restrain the mechanism (the big gear) or you'll be sitting in the ER waiting to get stitched up...
Thanks guys. As of right now I got both sides torn apart and Im going to start messing with the switches. Currently only the drivers side works and passenger doesnt work from either side...



