I bought a '97 Dodge Ram sport 4x4 with a 5.2 and a 5 speed manual. Sometimes it takes 5-6 turns of the key to get it to turn over long enough to start. Sometimes when you turn the key it does nothing, sometimes it attempts to turn over then quits, and then it will start. The battery is fine, just wondering if there's a starter relay or something on this truck or a sensor on the clutch?

 

the solenoid in the starter might be sticking.
or it might be the battery. a battery can put out 12 volts but lose that 12 volts and take a little bit to recover when a load is put on it.
get your battery tested at a parts store.

 

+1 make sure ALL your connections to the starter and battery are on TIGHT!!! It could also be the bushings in the starter that are starting to wear down.

 

Perform a voltage drop test on the starter circuit with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter. You will need a second person to crank the engine.

Disconnect coil. Crank for about 5 seconds to get reading.

Digital volt meter negative lead on negative battery post. Positive lead on positive post. Crank engine and record reading (min. 12 volts).
Now positive lead to battery terminal stud on starter and negative lead to clean, dry spot on starter housing. Should be no more than 1 volt less than previous reading. If more than 1 volt, then excessive voltage drop. Proceed to pinpoint.

Now instead of reading actual voltages, you will be reading voltage drop.

Check positive side of circuit:

Connect positive lead to positive battery post and negative lead to battery terminal stud on starter. Crank engine. A reading over .6 volts is excessive voltage drop.

Positive lead to positive battery post and negative lead to positive battery terminal. Should read zero volts. If not, then remove battery terminal, clean post and terminal, and reinstall terminal.

Positive lead to positive battery terminal and negative lead to positive cable end at starter. Crank engine. Should read .2 volts or less. If greater, then replace positive battery cable.

If above test was good, then positive lead to positive cable end at starter and negative lead to actual starter stud. Crank engine. If not zero volts, then with negative cable off remove positive cable from starter and clean connection. Reinstall.

Check negative side of circuit:

Positive lead to clean, dry spot on starter housing and negative lead on negative battery post. Crank engine. A reading over .3 volts is excessive voltage drop.

Positive lead to negative battery post and negative lead to negative battery terminal. Should read zero volts. If not, then remove battery terminal, clean post and terminal, and reinstall terminal.

Positive lead to negative battery terminal and negative lead to negative cable end at engine block. Crank engine. Should read .2 volts or less. If greater, then replace negative battery cable.

Positive lead to negative cable end at block and negative lead to actual engine block. If not zero volts, then remove negative cable from block and clean connection. Reinstall.

Positive lead to clean, dry spot on starter housing and negative lead to clean, dry spot on engine block. Crank engine. Should read .1 volt or less. If not, then with negative cable off remove starter, clean mounting surfaces, and reinstall.

Whew! If good to this point and still slow starter rotation you can safely assume that the starter needs to be replaced.

Cables and connections are the most overlooked portions of the starting circuit and while a fresh starter or battery may overcome these deficiencies initially, the problem will return.

This sounds way more involved than it really is. Hope this helps!

 

wscott1500 you really take your time and do some great write ups.

 

here's a shorter version and a couple of suggestions.

to test the battery, turn the headlights on, then turn the ignition to start. a good battery and starter will spin the starter and significantly dim the headlights.

if the headlights go out, the battery is weak.

if the starter doesn't turn, and the lights don't significantly dim, then the starter is not drawing power. could be relay, solenoid, wiring, or starter.

also listen for the different sounds.
you should hear a light click for the relay to close.
then a heavy clank for the starter solenoid to close
and then finally the starter should spin.
a fluttering clicking noise is usually caused by a weak battery.

also be aware of the neutral safety switch. its in the transmission of an auto, not sure where it is in a manual. it locks out the starter if not in neutral/park. malfunction of this will prevent all electrical action and noise.

this worked for me awhile back. might apply to you.
my daughters 4runner acted similar. when you turned the ignition, it might or might not spin the starter. when it didn't spin, there was a solid clunk of the solenoid (part of the starter), and a very faint dim of the headlights.
i removed the starter and connected it to a battery on the work bench. same inconsistent result. i took it apart to check the brushes. brushes were fine, but the grooves in the commutator were gummed up with brush residue. i used a small flat screwdriver to scrape the gum out of the grooves. bench test it - worked perfect. reinstalled it. saved $100+

 

Yeah,..check your starter wires for tightness and also that connections aren't corroded or have rust on them, (sand paper or file all connections..and for corrosion,..warm water/baking soda mixture and soak corroded battery cables, etc..

 

Thanks, I appreciate the compliment!