do dealers have the tools and know how to do this? need to move to texas next week so it a big headache.

will they touch a modded truck.

 

When they reset the fuel sync offset is it always the same? Do they need to know everything about your motor and tuning to do this or is it a straight forward opperation? I ask because they are great factory mechanics not aftermarket tunners. (not saying they arnt capable I just dont want to take it to them and have them try to be tunners and mess something up or say well its not stock so your out of luck)

 

Well, that is going to be an issue. I had them tell me that they weren't going to touch my truck as it was all "hot rodded". Then, I found another dealer who said, not an issue. So, it depends.

I am in almost the same boat as you. I have been waiting for my Edlebrock heads for two weeks and, I have to get it back together this week for I am driving cross-country to the east coast in a week.

Now, if I were you, I would call around and find a speed shop that knows what the hell they are doing. Most that I have gone to out here look at me sideways about setting the sync. You know they don't know when they give you the "uh, ah, ok, yeah, we have a DRB tool" with the deer in the headlights look-no way do they have a clue. It's a dead give away. The motor guys into those big blocks that I have dealt with are experts in just that- big blocks. But, when it comes to fine details and electrical computers, it's going to be either old school where, they don't have a clue what your talking about or, new tech where, you go to an advanced shop where, they are running EFI live and, Proscan tools etc, those are the guys who are modding engines with EFI systems and dual turbos on big blocks, those guys are the ones you need to seek out.

The thing that I don't get is the pointing of the gear that far off from TDC No 1 Cyl?? Did you happen to have someone check this to ensure that the cam, the crank and the dizzy were all synced up?

I would most certainly get someone to re-time your engine for you. That's what I would do in this case. Just try to find someone who's geared in using software tools etc to fine tune the engine. You are running EFI right and not naturally aspirated yes?

 

I set the dist gear to the no1 intake bolt but krc wanted it almost up and down. Should I go back like all the old mopars are? And naturally aspired 53mm tb. Stock air cleaner. And no speed shops around.

 

You might just want to check were your remote start was wired up, when you install the remote start you tap into the ignition wires, it could be shorting out the ignition, just a shot and doesnt cost anything.

 

No speed shops around? Oh boy. The only recommendation I have is to NOT go with natural aspirated but only because of emissions and, actually, if you do it right, that motor with EFI and a couple of twin turbos, a top of the line ignition control module would really kick.

What year is your truck and what did the PCM originally go with? You are running SCT I see so, the tune should be fine.

See, the thing we don't know is, if it's purely an electrical problem where your losing your buss power to the PCM or, if it's a sync issue. If the motor never ran fine since the rebuild, that's a good indication that something is up.

If it had run smooth and powerful without issue, then, we could look into a power supply issue. But, based on the information that was provided, it's sounding like it was never right from the get go which leads me to believe that it's not timed right.

Let me ask you this:

When you had it running for 2500 miles, how did it run? Did you keep a log on how it ran day to day so you could go back and look it later? I do this and, I find it extremely helpful in diagnosing issues. Sometimes we tend to think that it "was fine" when, in reality, it really wasn't.

Anyway, did it idle fine from the get go? Did you have any DTC codes? Throw any CELs?

Just like to get some more history of that time period where you were able to get 2500 miles out of it to see how it ran and if there were any electrical issues during that time. This may give us more clues of where the problem is rooted. One thing that I noted you stating was the blinking / flashing dash lights. Normally, when the PCM triggers the failsafe mechanism, it's immediate and, you can't restart it. I am thinking about that flashing. Talk tomorrow morning on this.

Chris

 

off the bat it would not start untill I changed the crank sensor. Then it ran but crappy untill 2 grand. Krc was positive (without even seeing my pics) that my dist gear was one tooth off. I had it pontiong to the no 1 intake bolt like everyone always has and how my magnum mopar book explains. it still ran bad and all my plug wires are off one to compensate. (I am putting the gear back to where its sopose to be and re wiring the dist this morning-never been happy with krc anyway.) untill i had the iac reset then it seemed to run fine. couple hundred miles latter it would cut out and die for about 2 seconds-rpms would drop to nothing but she would fire back up on her own and all was good. This would only happen the first time you drove it for the day when the motor was phisicly cold, and at the same spot down the street, as if it was going into closed loop. I was getting a crank sensor code. so I replaced it with an old one and it fixed it. But when I replaced it I noticed it was extremely hard to push the electrical connector together and the new one I replaced to get the truck fired wasnt plugged in all the way. About when it started cutting out before I yanked the motor on two occasion (back and forth from an errand) I got a huge clunk that just slaped you in the lower back. Like your rearend was gone, but my tc was going bad with tc shutter, it was an old used unit to begin with, and now with the new one I havent felt it sence. But sence that its been trouble free on the electrical side of things. Just recent it had started the blowby-ring problem. But other than that seemed fine.

 

yeah i will dig around and try to yank out the remote start. Buddy is going to try to sneek out the ol snapon tool this morning at 11 to set fuel sync

And like I said the cutting out just started happening and when I put the motor back in she ran perfect for the first 20 min. If the fuel sync was causing this why was it not always doing it. and if when the motor was broke in it put the sync off that far then when i just fired her then it should have been cutting out form the beginning.

Evey since installing the hughes fi intake(500 miles ago) it has started and idled rough when cold like an old carbed caron the choke.

Took her out around the block this morning and it ran fine, just rough cause it was cold. No cutting out, but it wasnt warmed up yet and it seems to cut out when the motor is warm.



Put the test light on the blue/yellow wire coming out of the igniton switch trying to test if it cuts out when the motor cuts out but there is only power there when you have the key in the start positon not in the run so it must go through a relay and bypass the igniton swich when in run.

 

See, you were getting the CKPS code from day one. It did not start. That is a sure sign right there that this is a CKPS / CPS timing issue and, if that's out of whack, you know the fuel sync is also going to be out of whack.

The whole practice of having to offset your plugs at the dizzy is jacked as is the gearing advance. I would put it back to stock as your doing and as standard and retime your CAM and re-sync your PCM to your engine- not the other way around. What KRC had you do is a workaround vs. fixing the root issue. A new rebuilt motor should run perfect at both idle and all the way through the rpm range not just ok at 2 grand.

What year is your truck and what motor was in there prior?

Now, when your CKPS cuts out, or, it loses sync, the program at the PCM will execute the power down command thus removing power from the ASD relay however, if your driving, it will not just shut off. This is a safety mechanism and, it usually puts it into limp home mode.

But, if your getting erratic power to everything, and, you have remote starting, I would check that. I do recall reading on here in fact about this issue before and, it was just like turning the key <OFF>.

If you look at the schematics, circuit A14 16RD/WT supplies the PCM with B+ and, through the ignition switch your looking at F18 22LG/BK that comes off RUN at the switch to F18 18LG/BK (ASD RELAY & FUEL PUMP RELAY) and terminates at the PCM circuit-A2 fused (ignition switch input START/RUN) at the PCM. This is the circuit path to check. There's also a splice off of that line (S132) to feed the EGR and duty cycle Evap solenoid (if equipped) so, check for short to ground condition at those areas and, anywhere your remote starter system is tapped / spliced.

IS the wiring stock or modded / spliced / customized or, is it stock OEM?

 

fuel sync is 3