intresting read..build sheet for my truck

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Jan 10, 2010 | 10:55 PM
  #11  
Quote: not really special, whats up with the 90 amp alternator? i thought the lowest factory amperage was 117.

when you get a new battery don't get another 600 amp maintenance free battery, they suck. you want at least 1000 amps and at least 800 cold cranking amps. like the everstart maxx from wal mart.

your valve cover gaskets are probably leaking because of loose bolts. within 5000 miles of setting their torque to 95 inch pounds, they start backing off. mine, my sisters and my dads trucks all had 5 loose bolts on each valve cover. so loose that they were barely touching the valve covers, not even finger tight.
good to know..and oh believe me i plan on getting that exact battery..the one that i pulled out of there was beyond dead..it was put in 97 and i believe it was 600 amp or so..this sucker was wayyy to small for this truck lol

and as far as the alternator goes..it isnt the original so it might be a 90 it might be a 117 it might even be a 160
but im betting its a 90
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Jan 10, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #12  
Quote:
when you get a new battery don't get another 600 amp maintenance free battery, they suck. you want at least 1000 amps and at least 800 cold cranking amps. like the everstart maxx from wal mart.
I have an Everstart MAXX in my S-10 and you can crank the truck for a long time (Of course, since it is a Chevy, It'll never start!!!) and it doesnt skip a beat. The alternator is the problem in that truck.

Since you have that 90 AMP alternator, I'd switch it out for a 117 or 136 AMP. You can get one for the cheap at a junkyard.
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Jan 10, 2010 | 11:00 PM
  #13  
Quote: I have an Everstart MAXX in my S-10 and you can crank the truck for a long time (Of course, since it is a Chevy, It'll never start!!!) and it doesnt skip a beat. The alternator is the problem in that truck.

Since you have that 90 AMP alternator, I'd switch it out for a 117 or 136 AMP. You can get one for the cheap at a junkyard.
are you a mind reader?! i planned on it..lol just didnt figure it as a huge importance cause this one works already even with my amp and **** pulling on it..
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Jan 11, 2010 | 05:02 PM
  #14  
build sheet said it had rack and pinion steering.. wouldn't it be conventional with idler, pitman, etc?
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Jan 11, 2010 | 05:31 PM
  #15  
Quote:
when you get a new battery don't get another 600 amp maintenance free battery, they suck. you want at least 1000 amps and at least 800 cold cranking amps. like the everstart maxx from wal mart.

What on earth do you need a 1000 amp battery for? I have an 860/750 from walmart and have never had a problem.
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Jan 11, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #16  
Quote: What on earth do you need a 1000 amp battery for? I have an 860/750 from walmart and have never had a problem.
Big stereo systems. IDK, its nice to know your battery wont fail on you. I bet his truck starts really quick when its 10* outside.
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Jan 11, 2010 | 05:45 PM
  #17  
Quote: Big stereo systems. IDK, its nice to know your battery wont fail on you. I bet his truck starts really quick when its 10* outside.
My truck does not start very quick when it's 10* outside lol.
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Jan 11, 2010 | 05:46 PM
  #18  
Quote: What on earth do you need a 1000 amp battery for? I have an 860/750 from walmart and have never had a problem.
go somewhere really cold and see how fast your truck will start. also run an 810 watt amp all the time along with a bunch of lights.
Quote: Big stereo systems. IDK, its nice to know your battery wont fail on you. I bet his truck starts really quick when its 10* outside.
exactly.
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Jan 11, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #19  
Quote: My truck does not start very quick when it's 10* outside lol.
Neither does mine. But I have a battery that is smaller than the one that came from the factory with. Its probably 600 amps but isnt as big as the factory battery. Stupid Duralast! Stupid me!
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Jan 11, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #20  
exactly..and its nice to not have to worry about leaving your parking lights and subs and amps going for the whole night when your hanging with your buds
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