cold weather causing engine to stall out
#1
cold weather causing engine to stall out
I have a 99' 2500 2wd, 5.9L and I have had about 6 months of thisconstant problem of needing to apply some gas in the morning and feather the truck until about 5 minutes of driving. If I do not do this it will stall.
I have noticed in the past couple of weeks as well that truck idles lower in colder weather, this is the entire driving time, not just the first couple of minutes -
15 Degrees= 500-550 RPMs
25 Degrees= 600-650
35 Degrees= 700-800
I have read a bit about this, and have hear possibly candidate are Idle Air Motor/valve, EGR, Fuel Filter, and fuel line. Does this sound like anything someone has seen before. The colder weather effecting the constant rpms is what I am hoping will lead to something.
Thanks,
Kevin
I have noticed in the past couple of weeks as well that truck idles lower in colder weather, this is the entire driving time, not just the first couple of minutes -
15 Degrees= 500-550 RPMs
25 Degrees= 600-650
35 Degrees= 700-800
I have read a bit about this, and have hear possibly candidate are Idle Air Motor/valve, EGR, Fuel Filter, and fuel line. Does this sound like anything someone has seen before. The colder weather effecting the constant rpms is what I am hoping will lead to something.
Thanks,
Kevin
#2
#5
So I sprayed down the throttle bottle with some cleaner or a while, which made things seem a little worse for a day. Then I took out the IAC and cleaned that carbon covered. It didn't seem any better right away, but it has slowly improved a little. I wasn't able to reach and clean out the port of the IAC at all because of its location. I will let you if it continues to improve.
#6
the only benefit of clean an IAC is to remove gunk from the end of the pintle, or gunk from the well (note the small hole in the middle for air to flow through), or clean the gunk out of the hole itself.
IAC is a small motor that drives the pintle in and out, opening or closing the bypass valve.
if its dirty, it might benefit from cleaning, but more than likely, it needs replacing. the TPS is also involved in the dance of sensor magic and idle problems can be related to TPS, especially if you get a related CEL code.
i'd just replace it for $40-50. keep the old one temporarily. if this fixes it, throw the old one away as bad. if it doesn't change anything, then keep the old as a spare.
IAC is a small motor that drives the pintle in and out, opening or closing the bypass valve.
if its dirty, it might benefit from cleaning, but more than likely, it needs replacing. the TPS is also involved in the dance of sensor magic and idle problems can be related to TPS, especially if you get a related CEL code.
i'd just replace it for $40-50. keep the old one temporarily. if this fixes it, throw the old one away as bad. if it doesn't change anything, then keep the old as a spare.
#7
Well after about a day or so after I took the IAC off and gave it a good cleaning, it worked like new...although it has been so long since that was I don't know what exactly that sounds like... But eitherway, it has been working for about a month, and if I do have any problems I am going to replace it like you guys have suggested. Thanks for all the help and advice, it is much appreciated.